| agree totally with Dan . Far more reliable — screwdriver you will get you home . Pertronix fails you walk . Pertronix has three coils . You must use correct coil , not a free choice . Two or three observations —we have hit on before . 1) It is extremely difficult to set up dual points in the car without an old fashioned analog dwell meter . Mechanic who says he can do that tells me get a new mechanic . overlap is really critical , or you get misfires Note they went 140 mph stock . Idea of dual points is more dwell .. see 3 2) most “points problems” are due to junk asian replacement capacitors with black rubber cone in the end and black wire .= junk — and they go intermittent too . The original chrysler ones with copper strap ( on high end replacements too) do not fail , keep them . Replaced with “ new junk “ for no rational reason . Caps are easily tested . 3) I had worked on correctly adapting GM hei module to being correctly driven by points . Points would last 50 k if only switching a low signal current . You cannot drive hei or chrysler electronic box off points without electronics in between . ( despite many internet experts in Chevy world — there is an EE issue , signal cannot have one side grounded) — it needs isolation transformer so it looks like a pickup coil to HEI input . This exchange brings all that up .. A real Delco HEI is a very good box, cheap and much better output than mopar , as it adjusts dwell with RPM , how it gets away with no ballast R . At least 1000 rpm better before falloff . All we need . Corvettes hit 7000 with them . Sent from my iPhone not by choice I am happy to hear so many of you have had good luck with Pertronix. Corvette owners I associate with, most of whom serve as their own mechanics have not had as much luck and there is considerable controversy over their use. Seems divided down the middle between those of you here who love it and are problem free and those who came home on a tow truck. At the very least the warning I get is to keep a set of points, including the mounting screw, in the glove box just in case. Their theory is you can take a matchbook striker to a set of points and get going again. I’ve always wanted to know how they made a switching transistor that small to carry primary current, needing no means of cooling, inside the distributor. Somehow they must have it working. But for that reason I generally recommend staying with points. A good set properly installed and adjusted will go 15,000 miles or more. For me adjusting points and playing around with old tech is half the fun. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Nowosacki
Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 7:53 AM
To: Lars Kirschke <lars.kirschke@xxxxxxxx>
Cc: Ray Melton <rfmelton@xxxxxxx>; 300 Club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Kit for Electronic Ignition Conversion 1961 Chrysler 300G Interesting Petronix discussion. I found a Petronix pickup setup at a swap meet that fits my 72 MG Midget for $5, but no other parts or instructions. I just installed it in place of the points, with no change to distributor, wires, plugs or ballast resistor, and it works great. I've owned the car since 1979, and it's never started better. Maybe I should try to download the instructions? ;-)
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