Re: {Chrysler 300} Cold start 300G

Jholst has a great site with shop manuals and other info on our cars. It links off one or both 300 club sites. Pin it to your desk top. Go to the link below and you will find the 1961 CHRYSLER SHOP MANUAL and the 1961 300 G SHOP MANUAL SUPPLIMENT in beautiful .PDF’s you can download and save or print.

Use this to tune your cars. Don’t monkey with adjustment screws without employing Mother Mopar’s carefully depicted regimen for doing so.

http://jholst.net/300resource/index.php

As I wrote this morning, with two AFB primary barrels in operation at all times on a Ram Inducted car it is important that carb adjustments be performed to the letter, no pun intended. The soot some of you observe is likely chokes out of adjustment and this is exacerbated by the induction system design.

Danny Plotkin

From: 93saturnfan [mailto:93saturnfan@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2022 9:25 AM
To: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cold start 300G

Do you have a link to that?

Ryan

-------- Original message --------

From: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Date: 2/18/22 7:05 AM (GMT-06:00)

To: "D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>, Dan300f <dan300f@xxxxxxx>

Cc: rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cold start 300G

As I mentioned earlier the shop manual procedure should be used. It is very clear. Turning adjustment screws without using a vacuum guage or at minimum comparing resulting idle speed and quality is a waste of time.

Remember, our Ram cars run on 4 barrels all the time, unlike quads with progressive linkage or trips that run on a center 2 barrel. That makes carb adjustments more important to get right.

Get the 60 or 61 F or G supplement, its free on line, and follow it.

Danny Plotkin

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------

From: "D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>

Date: 2/17/22 10:59 PM (GMT-05:00)

To: Dan300f <dan300f@xxxxxxx>

Cc: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx, chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Cold start 300G

Hello Chrysler friends,

Others on this list are actual mechanics, I am not. But, my understanding is that the screws on the front of the carbs are idle mixture adjustment screws that affect the idle circuit only. If that is true, I’m surprised that a minor adjustment to these would lead to such a huge difference in fuel economy (unless it had to do with fighting frequent plug fouling?), when most of your driving time is on the throttle circuit and therefore unaffected by the idle mixture screw change. I could see soot being reduced but wow that’s drastic for a 1/4 turn. Dan sounds like you found a sweet spot of not too lean not too rich. Maybe that’s how you tell. Adjust only until the soot goes away. If it works it works. Too lean is hard on an engine though as Richard Huss points out.

Not sure if the fast idle at cold start (=higher fuel flow than steady state operating temp idle) is entirely carb idle circuit.

V/r,

dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 17, 2022, at 10:49 AM, 'Dan300f' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi all:

Several years ago, I was having a problem with my F shooting soot immediately after starting from a cold engine. I resolved the problem by turning the idle mixture screws in 1/4 turn. Take a look see at the attached photos of before and after the adjustment. The after adjustment photo (clean floor) was taken 24 hours after the before photo (dirty floor) was taken. I don't know if these adjustments had anything to do with it but after the adjustments, I drove the car to the Meet north of San Francisco and back home, about 1,000 miles total, and my overall trip mileage had improved by about 20% from 10.5 mpg to 12.5 mpg. I had never gotten more than 10.5 mpg in all my travels to places like Phoenix, Sacramento, Denver, etc.

As to cold starting of my F, I turn on the electric fuel pump for a few seconds and the car starts off right now. Otherwise, it's pump, pump pump. Also, I found out that first putting the car in Drive and then pushing the Reverse button, I do not get a sudden jolting shift and a screech from the rear wheels.

On that trip to San Francisco, on the way home via Route 5, I was passed by a caravan of about 50 Corvettes. Nearly everyone of them gave me a thumbs up. Wonder what their reaction would have been if they were passing 50 300's???

Just some random thoughts.

Dan Reitz
Bell Canyon, CA

___________________________________________________________________________________________
Richard-

The shop manual and the F supplement contain exact instructions for setting up the carbs and linkage on an F or G. If you have had them off the car than you should start at the beginning and follow the instructions to the letter. Nothing has changed in 61 years to render the instructions written for Chrysler techs inapplicable today. Its the same car and we should be doing the same things!

Sooty exhaust is an overly rich choke setting depending upon how much soot. If the car doesn't make it out to the road for high speed runs expect sooty exhaust. Two carbs feed a lot of gas into that 413, it won't be happy loafing around town.

Pull the plugs and read them. That will tell you something about your carb adjustments. then follow Mother Mopar's procedures.

Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "RICHARD HUSS" <rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2022 7:58am
To: "'Keith Langendorfer' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Cold start 300G
I rebuilt the carbs and the car runs great. (a little soot at start) but is cord natured. if it sits overnight it takes a few cranks to get fuel back in the carbs. What am i missing in the carb setup? A choke setting? I cant find any articles or videos on how to set up the older Carter Carbs. Thanks Richard

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