Hi Mark, exactly what John says, plus this: 63 doesn’t have an oil gauge, just a warning light. So only the fuel and temp gauge affected. What I have seen on J is that fuel and temp will slowly rise or fall in unison when VR acts up. Mine does it about once in a blue moon so mostly just a nuisance. I believe VR is actually part of internal fuel gauge – not external. Not a real precise device to start with – pulses battery voltage on and off to get an average 5.5V or so to the gauges, gauges designed to respond slowly. Dash ground can be issue as well. Your symptoms sound more like fuel sender, ground strap, wires etc. just as John describes. And you can test gauge outside the car for basic operation. I use an old cell phone charger -outputs 5V DC, perfect for testing gauges, cut the end off, strip the 2 wires, solder or screw wires to alligator clips, good to go. One lead to power terminal, other lead to “S” terminal (sender), polarity doesn’t matter. Gauge should to full scale after a short delay once power is applied. Carl From: John Grady Hi if vr is bad it will cause the temp and oil gauges to act up too .If VR fails ( it is rare to fail unless wiring is messed with ) it will usually fail full on , all 3 gauges tend to peg or read very high . That state can hurt them , burn them out . All except Amps are powered by same VR unit .poor ground of VR device itself will also do that , don’t know about J but dash ground is an issue on FGH . It takes three wires to work , 12 ign supply , a ground and the output which flicks on and off . Shorting the output wire which runs to all tha gauges or on PC Card will blow up VR With ign on put a volt meter from the temp sensor lead on engine ( leaving it connected) under the hood to ground . You should see a voltage coming and going about every half second with a stock VR . Can’t see it well on digital meter , but easy on analog meter . If you see that fluctuation and I assume temp ( or oil) gauge is working ok ,VR unit is fine . Tank gas gauge issues are almost always the sending unit, or wire near tank . the ones sold as “ exact replacement “ are usually not correct ohms .And the rate of change with gas fill is off . So you get strange readings . Work it if out car in your hand ( ground it ) be sure it touches bottom of tank , if replaced try to get E right , as F does not matter as much . Keep old ones , sometimes can be cleaned and fixed . Never increase force of the little sliding contact on the wire winding , it will tear up the winding . Be sure a good ground from the outlet pipe To frame . One good way is scrape a clean place on outlet pipe wind 3-4 turns of 14 ga stranded building wire , then put small SS hose clamp around that winding . Other end to nut and bolt into car metal . From description of jumping around , if the other gauges are ok , probably bad connection in harness , likely at tank or trunk wire or an intermittent ground of tank issue . Rusty straps do that Or sender is in trouble . Good luck , frustrating … Jg By the way you can short sender to ground at tank terminal briefly , the gauge should go to full or beyond . Good test of wiring and gauge and vr .. Do that only if if other gauges are apparently working Sent from my iPhone
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