Gents,
I am not shilling for this guy, but I couldn’t be happier with my results.
When you weigh just the savings in cost, but especially the total labor from changing drums and/or rear ends versus cost of freight and the services of getting your drums basically remanufactured and then just reassembling your brakes, one can certainly see the benefits. He has the correct arbors for the MOPAR rear hubs.
https://www.jgrelining.com/
My K had the front drums relined to original spec, and the rear drums turned and special thicker linings bonded on to the shoes and all four corners arced to the drums.
With the thicker linings on the rear, I should live so long as to the next time I have to pull the rear drums!
Still much less in cost and especially the additional installation and calibrating labor spent when compared to a front or full disc conversion for what real increase in stopping power?
Along with a dual master conversion, my K stops on a dime with a light touch to the pedal! Compared to my ’12 300 with four discs, not as cushy a pedal but still I can pull this beast down as fast as I choose to!
I used a breaker bar with a 6’ iron pipe slipped over it and a tire iron inserted through the legs to keep all from spinning. Three pulls down and POW, just like that! No magic here. I personally will never beat down on a bearing with that provided T bar.
Allan
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Ron Waters
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2022 10:48 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Xout to slipover rear drums '57-'64.
>some of these drums are toast. Their difficulty in removal meant that for years they were never serviced. Some of these have shoes with no friction surface left at all and have ruined the drums.
Danny -
All true statements. But the point that the guy was making was that you should do the conversion because of difficulty of removal for general servicing. I had issues removing drums because the shoes were stuck onto the drums after years of sitting outside. When finally removed, the drums were a mess. So drums, shoes, frozen center supports with rounded hex-head adjusters were all replaced with good used parts from dry cars. All good now. And when I had to service a leaky rear wheel cylinder on my 58 Plymouth, I was able to remove the rear drum with minimal effort, even though the brakes hadn't been touched in about ten years.
Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dan Plotkin
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2022 11:28 AM
To: 'Ron Waters'; 'William Huff'; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Xout to slipover rear drums '57-'64.
Ron-
You are correct about one piece drum assemblies being designed that way for a good reason. However their removal is not always as easy as you say for everyone who tries. And you ignore the fact that some of these drums are toast. Their difficulty in removal meant that for years they were never serviced. Some of these have shoes with no friction surface left at all and have ruined the drums. In a case like this a slip on drum and its associated modification are not a bad idea.
Twin wheel cylinders, booster cans mounted above master cylinders, tapered rear axles were mostly good ideas at the time and at the time were easy to deal with. Not so much today.
Danny Plotkin
Sorry, but there is no need to convert the existing 56 thru 64 (?) brakes to a jury-rigged setup. I've never had trouble removing the drums from tapered axles, even on late 50s Mopars that have sat outside for decades. It comes down to knowing how to correctly use the tapered axle puller. Or use the Les Fairbanks tool.
He states that the main reason for doing the conversion is that it's 'a pain' to do a brake job otherwise. So the question is, once he services the rear brakes, how often does he expect to have to remove the rear drums, especially on our cars which may get driven a few thousand miles a year ? I would guess once a decade, if that. Also, Chrysler engineers created a one piece drum and hub assembly for a reason: So that the drums stay centered with respect to the hub and the shoes. When you defeat that purpose, you will experience uneven braking and vibration.
Just because it's on some website doesn't mean it's gospel truth.
Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of William Huff
Sent: Monday, October 24, 2022 12:20 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Xout to slipover rear drums '57-'64.
That is very interesting, and answers some questions I have had for years, so the axle doesn't have to change, good.. Now I wonder if I can just substitute a later backing plate with the later brakes for the dual brake cylinder set up on my 58 300. There may be some spacing issues between the later drums and the older tapered axle drums.
Bill Huff
On 10/23/2022 9:25 PM, Rich Barber wrote:
Interesting video on converting ’57-’64 tapered rear drums to ’65 & later slip-on. New to me, but seems to make sense. Not sure if works with 3” rear drums.
https://tinyurl.com/2ksfrxvz
Rich B. in Brentwood.
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