Re: {Chrysler 300} K Spark plugs and Alternator gauge

Matt Allyn

On Dec 31, 2022, at 11:33 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

You are 100% correct on this , originally it had a wire usually from rear of passenger head area to fire wall . Not replaced after engine pull .

That missing wire forces all the ground current to flow rearward through the driveline and trans , that ruins ball bearings by pitting them with small arcs , and interferes with VR if a drop in voltage . However battery is solidly grounded to engine bolt . Some cars have a dual ground lead out of - post that one part of lead goes to body at battery . But looks non stock on early car

There is no need to run to alternator case at all as it is solidly grounded to block . VR is solidly grounded to body . So just like stock, take wire from say rear intake bolt to firewall with correct ends is way to do it . Some small starter cables at napa for foreign cars might be good , as 12 is on the small side . I’d say 8 gauge . Jeep GC 4.0 02 have a braided ground cable there , might work .

While on this , I have relocated battery to trunk on a few cars ( 80 lbs to the back and out of way) . Then starter current (300A) needs to be dealt with , body to engine aspect of it . It would ruin U joints etc
So I started routinely putting a jumper at passenger engine mount , block to frame , using short starter cable with big eye lug in both ends . Use one engine mount bolt and one on frame . Frame one sometimes hard to get at , I drill and tap for like 5/16 or 3/8 bolt . This is bulletproof way to do this .
FYI
John

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 31, 2022, at 1:40 PM, Larry Wood <larryjw7@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I thought i would share the problem i had with my 300 i burned up 5 regulator s and alternator problems galore .I was telling a Chrysler Engineer about the problem.He said the Body to the Engine ground straps were faulty .He said run a. #12 wire from alternator body to the regulator base where it bolts to the fender. I did that my headlights quit going from dim to bright. And i have had no problem for 16 years .i also replaced the Engine ground straps to the Body. Hope this helps. Larry w

On Sat, Dec 31, 2022, 12:50 PM D.C. Mason <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks Danny- I’ll disconnect the FLD wire at both ends and run a temporary new wire to check if it’s that…

V/r
Dave & Kya

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 31, 2022, at 12:03 PM, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:

D&K-
An alternators output in controlled by the magnetism of the rotating field coil, which the regulator feeds based on demand and output. A sticking regulator contact can cause the alternator to go to full output (16+ volts) brighten lamps considerably and wreak havoc on battery and other parts that don't enjoy being powered 40% higher than design.

A short in the wiring between the regulator and alternator may exist, carefully inspect the wire connected to the field terminal on the regulator for its entire length to the alternator.

Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "D.C. Mason" <petergriffinforpresident@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2022 11:11pm
To: "Chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} K Spark plugs and Alternator gauge

Hello group,

The old Champion J12Y plugs in the K have been replaced with NGK 5670-8 (3354) plugs. While test driving the car, the pinging that was still sometimes heard on hard acceleration appears to be gone. Will try driving on a warmer day and verify again.

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The below video clip was taken on the test drive. Anyone ever had an alternator gauge go bad in a 64? Wondering if that could be the cause of the attached. Gauge goes from 25% to pegged at 100% sporadically at no particular engine rpm. Dash lights go accordingly from dim to the brightest I’ve ever seen a 63/64 go. All lights are affected- not just dash lights. Headlights go bright and dim too along with gauge indicator movement. This issue was seen when we first got the car and is still happening even after replacing the alternator, headlight switch and voltage regulator (they needed to be updated anyway). Battery is also new. The first thing I’d suspect is the voltage regulator but as I say it’s new and the problem was happening with the old regulator too.

Temperature and fuel gauges are unaffected and function properly. So ruling out voltage limiter because of that, and the fact that headlights are part of the problem. We’ve owned several 63/64s and have never seen this before. As we all know, subtle changes in brightness of lights in these cars are sometimes noticeable with changing rpm’s but this happens at a steady cruise and is much more dramatic. I will check the gauge with an ohmmeter and compare to another alternator gauge. Maybe folks will have other suggested culprits.

Note- the other problem mentioned recently on email with headlights cutting off when using high beams was on a different 64 (Newport) and was solved by replacing the headlight switch. The subject car of this email is the K. Along the lines of gauges we are also having a problem with the 64 300 sport temperature gauge being dead but I’m still troubleshooting and will report any lessons learned.

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Thanks,
D&K

Sent from my iPhone

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