Re: {Chrysler 300} carburetors / storage

I saw a you tube (that I can't find right now) about how to get the ethanol out of your gas by using a 5 gallon (or larger) can with a drain/petcock in the bottom. The trick was to put some water with food coloring (green, orange, whatever) in it together with your ethanol fuel, stir/mix well, and let it sit for a day or two. The ethanol will combine with the water and separate out from the gas, sinking to the bottom of the tank. You then drain the colored water from the bottom of the tank until the color changes/disappears, and what is left is mostly ethanol-free gas. The website person was doing this to make a few gallons of ethanol free gas at a time for use in his gas powered lawnmowers/snowblowers, and other such small engines that he didn't want mucked up by ethanol. It may not scale well for a full driving season of our old cars, but may be worth it at the end of the season for putting something away for a few months of storage? The colored ethanol/water mixture would still burn well enough to be used as an accelerant for starting piles of brush on fire after Fall yard/woods cleanup. ;-)

https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Ethanol-from-Gas

On Mon, Feb 20, 2023 at 9:44 AM John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

James, I buy that method. I like it
Jamie Hyde piped in a while back on ethanol —he has a friend in a related business . It is absolutely true that ethanol and gas are a mechanical mixture of different specific gravity and over a period of three months they layer out . Big issue in gas stations —big issue for his friend storing it in huge tanks — so buy from busy one if forced to ethanol high test . Implication for gas tank not good .

I like the pinch off idea except ethanol in any tank gas will layer out . The bs starts . You might get all ethanol at first . Whole ethanol thing is predicated on rapid use of it to stay mixed .

This whole discussion , my all day severe hassle on exit ramp — and 200$ tow later , cops etc —and the layering being a fact prompted me to look now at a permanent tee at carb fuel filter two 1/8 npt x 5/16 hose barbs and a 1/8 npt plug , when storing put long hose on plugged hole run all gas out till engine dies .And thus done right .
Story of stable eating stuff is same deal . Band S stiff won’t — but empty is obviously still the best .” It worked for me “ may be luck on gas storage products
Same idea as draining hose bib in winter .
ya gotta do it ,not “find some other way “ with magic beans -
imho .

Best 15 minutes you ever spend , vs $ and consequences of breakdown 15 mikes from house first time out . Then find a new carb, or rebuild etc . Add time , it’s a thousand bucks . And we have two carbs , fuel
pump too .

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2023, at 1:17 PM, Hank Hallowell <Hank@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I’ve never heard of it….thanks for the great tip!!! I’m going to check it out!!
(I sure do like the name)

Hank

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 19, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Dyke Ridgley <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I am surprised nobody has discussed the No-Rosion products. They have items for fuel storage, octane improvement and cooling systems. We have used their products for over 20 years and are very pleased. N0-Rosion is the real deal, no snake oil. I know the owner of the company and they make most of the additives for the "store brand" companies and also the additives for major race gas companies. Their website has a great FAQ section that covers all this and his semi- annual newsletter is very informative. They are a chemical company and not a fly-by-night outfit.

Dyke Ridgley
Ridgley Racing

5500 Walmsley Rd

Decatur, IL 62521

217-865-2300 p

217-865-2309 f

On Sun, Feb 19, 2023 at 11:11 AM Marshall Larson <granitledge@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I have 18 vehicles, not counting lawn mowers, and all but one of them sit for 6 months at a time with no human intervention including battery chargers. I have had only two problems in many years. The first was when I dutifully put Stabil in my lawn mowers. In one of the mowers, the bottom 1 inch of the brass dip tube in the tank had disappeared. That was the end of Stabil for me!
The other was a 35 Ford Panel Delivery with one of Henry's V8s. In the spring the gaskets in the carb were gone. Replaced the gaskets with ethanol tolerant parts and no further problems with ethanol. That was in 1997.
My procedure for storage is to disable the fuel supply to the carbs, pinch off a rubber line or disconnect a hard line, and then run the engine at high idle 1500-2000 RPM until it begins to stumble and then work the accelerator pump vigorously until the engine dies. Disconnect the battery, close the hood and walk away.
I take no action with the tanks except leaving them nearly empty.
I also store RVs and motorhomes in the same building as my vehicles and specify that my customers nearly empty their tanks before dropping them off. I don't need several hundred gallons of gas and diesel to add to a fire in my storage building.
All but two of my vehicles winter in central MN. That is my process and I will stick to it.

On Sun, Feb 19, 2023 at 9:53 AM 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

In my flying mags, I have been following the development of the replacements for 100LL.

I am wondering if these fuels as they come online could be a source of fuel for longer term storage for classic cars….

James

James

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Hank Hallowell <Hank@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 19, 2023 6:13:18 AM
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: mguarneri@xxxxxxx <mguarneri@xxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} carburetors / storage

So I’m not necessarily suggesting this…but it’s what I do:
1) I use non-ethanol BUT (I’ll admit it) I do get caught and end up using ethanol when there is No choice.

2) I use marine grade Stabil nearly always. I have 3 old mahogany boats and I do the same for them and they sit much longer. The Marine grade is more aggressive-I feel - confronting moisture….so I felt this is good for the car fleet.

3) I used to keep my tanks full - but a man who I totally trust who has worked on this stuff for 50 years - recommended that I go to a 1/4 tank rule - because even the no ethanol is crappy- and the stabilizer does deal with moisture that MAY develop from an un-full tank.

SO I am constantly adding a couple of gallons of fresh fuel - every month or 2.

4) (and this should be #1) everything gets run every 30-45 days….except in the winter. (Although this winter has been mild - so I’ve run them more frequently.)

5) I still have a carb problem once in a while - I have that now with floats (I think) stuck in my 57 312 baby Tbird with a Holley (which I’ve never liked - of course it’s a FORD which is a more serious problem!

Hank

On Feb 18, 2023, at 2:08 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

hi Jack .. read what’s in stabil on the bottle .. it’s alcohol . After being so careful you should know that .like the old Christy Dry Gas
in the East we can’t get good gas, One station in NH. Massachusetts pols being real stupid just follow california idiocy to get votes from the silver toyota crowd.

I thought system degradation too , but filter is right at the carb . why I posted the picture.

system stuff this coarse cannot get by a paper filter . What is it ? But to your point maybe stock old mopar filters corrode or something with ethanol .

your experience mirrors mine on carbs etc . I want to find out the why . I am sure many of us deal with this ..

never the less going to cut mopar metal filter to look .

on the tank filter , I may have mentioned before —it us made for alcohol fueled drag cars . See summit , their house brand is ok , 1/2 the price of fancy brands. it is big and comes apart with O rings to clean out . about 4” by 1.5” . it has a big stainless mesh screen inside , — remember no paper filter ! ever ! on intake side of pump it badly slows down pump as suction pressure there is very low . The stainless mesh has zero restriction , i get rid of sock in tank as nothing but trouble in an old car ,stainless takes its exact functional place but outside tank , anything caught in stainless is junk pulled outside of tank (,way i see it— almost good !) as some rust or dirt is always going to start . Don’t care about that , as this thing holds a cup of rust outside the tank — open it and clean in ten minutes . Dump junk . Paper filter still at carb .

Must be 15 times in my car life, I was stopped dead in the middle of nowhere by rust in a fuel pump , especially old Packards . Re Nu tank process done right ( not always the case ) coats the cleaned inside and out of tank with heavy black epoxy . That is bullet proof but still steep at 400 $ .

And, Add the filter no matter what .

Last packard fuel pump I did a few months ago had a cup of rust in lower inlet space , to the point the arm / diaphragm could not move fully . Still sort of ran .

A lot of this is like the battery , praising the tender when in fact car would have started anyway . Tender boils good batteries dry — a fact . Result of a success in spring is unrelated to tender or sta bil but looks that way .
Like a rain dance — hey it worked last year .

But the Briggs and Stratton stuff is real . I first read of it in an SAE paper ( I belong to SAE ) . We can find a cure .

john

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 18, 2023, at 11:27 AM, mguarneri via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

For those that favor STA-BIL, any comments regarding the difference (good/bad/better) between their '360 Marine' (blue bottle) and their 'storage' (red bottle) products?

John

In a message dated 2/18/2023 10:40:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, jackcboyle@xxxxxxxxx writes:

I personally think my storage regime for my 4 vintage cars ranging in age from 1946 to 1970 works. first and foremost no corn gas I have located several sources in and around Kansas City for non-ethanol fuel exclusively when I travel cross country I use websites to identify non ethanol fuel stops and in the event I can't find one I do not fill up at that station I wait until I can fill up at a non-ethanol station. In my last cross-country trip I was forced to only buy one partial tank the whole fuel out of approximately 12 fillips.

I endeavor to keep my tanks as full as possible during your storage and I personally believe that STABIL works but there are too many variables in this equation because I've not had problems with any of my cars since I started using STABIL and stopped using ethanol fuels.

I also open all the garage doors turn on the fans and run my cars for 20 to 30 minutes at least once during the winter if not twice. As soon as spring rolls around I exercise them as soon as possible then top off the fuel tanks with non-ethanol gasoline.

I was told and based on based reputable technical sources that the junk you find in your float bowl in your fuel filter and other places in your fuel system including elsewhere in the carburetor - are degrading vintage parts not designed to stand the alcohol content in ethanol fuels. developing the above regime took me two new fuel tanks 3 rebuilt carburetors 4 fuel pumps and uncounted fuel filters. Since then I've had no fuel problems.

lastly I know of several people that use aviation fuel in their cars because of the long term storage additives in those fuels. if I had easier access to aviation fuel I would also use that.

...Jack

Jack C. Boyle
Enjoying the same C300 since 1967

-----Original Message-----
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2023 7:04 AM
To: chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} carburetors / storage

so what is this stuff ?

looks like coffee grounds , clogged the carter jets around mixture rods . Pieces magnified have slight rotary appearance like ? tiny rotelli ? pasta .

symptom : idle screws ineffective , as fuel to idle circuit flows through main jets, rods are down at idle Result : it stalls the minute you close throttle , but long before that , idle screws seem to “ make no difference “ don’t adjust right .
Like most of you , i have a lot of cars in storage , I hope this is not going on in all of them .
There is a filter right before this carb , stock mopar metal one . First thoughts were some kind of corrosion inside short stock line after fitter , or filter parts or can dissolved inside by ethanol ?
Huge hassle ending with tow truck on exit ramp as this lets you get 10 miles from home and car stops for good, after attempting to “ clean it out” . Ran great on highway 90 mph ( rods lift out then) . You slow for exit ramp it dies for good . happens to be a 2 bbl 318 restored truck , BBD carb but identical functionally to front two of wcfb or afb 4 bbl. Truck has plastic gas tank , stainless mesh filter added there This carb was rebuilt 5 years back by a large canadian rebuilder , they left out a check ball under accelerator pump . Floats set lightly low . two upper body gaskets on top of each other not sure why but left that .
Makes me think do it yourself always . Buying rebuilt carb off the shelf a crap shoot , depends on guy who did it Main jets impossible to get out of body, the screw slot previously mangled, and corroded in place ? . Tried heat etc . Then realized critical jet sizing bore is 1/8” below screwdriver slot , nothing can go wrong there and you can still clean it gently — so heads up , leave alone if jet does not come out easily .
fyi , this problem matters …
tip 1 Thinking about it , run car dry every time you put away for more than 30 days?
tip 2, don’t try to “clear it out “ on highway if idle system not working right .

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