| i have exactly the same experience Henry , 67 dart 225 convert . I did put in mopar electronic ignition despite loving points as it is a bear to get into points on a slant in the dark . can hardly see distributor cap in the day let alone points It has been to PEI , chicago , florida texas etc etc . VR failed once ( mechanical ) fixed by side of Vermont road , steering got loose adjusted it by side of road in nova scotia — alternator bearing failed , update NY , it took out the belt , drove it start and stop 15 miles no fan , alternator or water pump , to auto parts store fixed it in yard in front . But all that is over 15-20 years, parts fail — normal , but easy to fix , always starts in spring , must have 300k miles . 19 mpg too . Holley 1920 1 bbl carb is unbelievably simple , runs great 30’$ carb kit , brakes 40$ .
I want a hemi like that .
I am building a hot rodded F with 450” 392. i wired and plumbed whole car for EFI , but after reading horror stories including fire , at last minute i am going back to bulletproof reliable carb .
with EFI or for that matter MSD 6 box anything dies, or goes wrong — you walk . and maybe weeks for parts and no one can fix it either . Same with pertronix . Points , I go again with screw driver and matchbook cover . ( or 2023 equivalent )
Once i was present in a dyno test of 354 ,with full 6 AL msd , 380 hp . Msd died in middle of dyno run . dyno guy says “ happens all the time “ Guy with the motor had his 300B distributor in his trunk , put it in in 10 minutes , exact same hp , same rpm
These cars went 140 mph all stock and parts that are not there do not break down , adding efi and msd etc brings you nothing in hp and adds 500 places for fragile complicated electronics to break .-points are fine , check every 10 k A big part of my decision was that 50 psi plus gas pressure . no thanks . Rolling fireball not in my future .
Even better , i had read in HRM of a new Holley carb ( brawler series ) on a 500” ford 460 it made almost 600 hp , but more important they had A/F ratio senders on the cylinders . It was perfect A/F at all rpm and loads . Guys running test were amazed how accurate right out of box . We forget carbs ARE far more precise now , CNC , computer simulation of fluid dynamics etc etc and a side impact of tight emissions control , and 120 years . That test sold me , I ordered one that night . Had to wait 6 months . Pulling all the FI stuff off . That says something ! Like I am much happier ! I can fix it ! On Mar 30, 2023, at 12:30 PM, Henry Schleimer <henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I must live a charmed life. My 78 Australian Chrysler still runs its Carter 2 BBL and Chrysler electronic distributor on the 265 Hemi six. I set the idle mixture screws with a gas analyser 20 years ago and haven’t touched it since. Every few years (if I remember) I put a drop of oil on the rotor felt. That’s it and it has never let me down. The only “problem” is the carb will dry out after sitting about a week and it takes about 4 cranks to get fuel. I can live with that. Plenty of oil pressure when it lights that way. If it ever gives me trouble in the future I know how to rebuild the carb or distributor for very little money. I don’t know how to rebuild an expensive aftermarket universal fuel injection kit.... I also have a brand new car with gasoline direct fuel injection. I like how it starts when I press a button but don’t pretend to know how to fix it on the side of the road with a screwdriver... But at least the same engineers who designed the engine, designed the fuel injection and ignition as well. I hope your plan is worth the trouble. Cheers Henry From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, 30 March 2023 2:47 AM
To: Chrysler 300 List Server (chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Longer range changes for the 300K At some point in the next six months, I am looking into pulling the Carter AFB and the Dizzy and replacing it with an MSD Atomic EFI, one of their distributors, 6AL box, and coil. For daily driving, cross country over the mountains, and the like it will be much more livable. Starting one in Lake Tahoe was a chore and the thing had little power until you got it up to speed. I remember that well as do all my friends with 4-BBLS or three 2BBL cars. The one thing that is going to be a real PITA is the coolant temperature sensor. MOPAR did not make it easy to add one with a car that had air conditioning. I am looking at a couple of solutions. None of them are great. One is to use the plug on the side of the block near the coolant hole on the driver’s side. The downside is crud screwing up the readings. Another possibility is to extend the 5/8 heater hose pipe up an inch or two and use a “Y” with one end for the heater hose and the other for the sensor. But this option may lead to the system being rich for too long as there is no flow unless the heater control is open. It is close the pump impellers and may be ok, but again, not sure. The only other option and it is not a bad one, but an ugly one, is to use one of the Meziere Enterprises adaptors in place of the thermostat. It uses and AN fitting to go up to the radiator. It has two plugs on it that would allow for the sensors. They also sell an inline thermostat housing that goes in the hose to the radiator. The upside of this would be that I could change the thermostat without messing around with the A/C to get to it.**** If anyone has any other ideas, I would like to hear them. I am planning this on paper right now, all the fuel and sensor and linkage issues. In the end, I am looking for a plan that of course can be reversed should anyone wish to do it. Best, James ****I do not remember if I told the story here. Every teenage boy’s worst nightmare. I had just turned 16. I had a date with one of the prettiest girls in the school. I took off to San Francisco in a 1971 Plymouth with a V8 and Air Conditioning. We came across the Golden Gate Bridge and soon after the car died. To make a very long story short, I had to push that car out of intersections for hours. We would drive and then it would stall. Cool then another 10 blocks and it would stall. This is no way to look “cool” when you are 16 and with a girl on a first date! In the end we made it to the concert at the Cow Palace on the opposite end of San Francisco and then back the 70 miles to our hometown. I was mortified the entire day. Turns out the thermostat stuck closed and caused vapor lock. Ever since I have HATED that buried thermostat on Chrysler Big Blocks with A/C. Perhaps the Meziere Enterprises inline in the hose unit would not be a bad idea for cross country trips! --
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