| i don’t think there is a clear answer to that ..the fit ? just try it ? see later , not a clean swap ? i was curious about similar aspects as the pull off piston in this has a strange fit , seals well at start and then as sucked in it seems to leak on purpose ? may be part of controlling rate of pull off if fed hot air . probably same piston ? I found this by sucking on vacuum port concerned about seemingly loose fit —which led to realization whole chanber is under vacuum . -so with electric —rate of heating of electric is setting opening rate , probably with an initial pull open a bit , a step by piston ( certainly how chokes work to avoid flooding at start instant ) . This is also the lean/ rich adjust you don’t have without black cover . Same deal with hot air drive , but might get too hot too fast then . So piston pull drops as it enters bore? Slows it down ? same thinking as you — and you get new spring too for hot air drive ! one could carefully drill a ? 3/16 hole and epoxy a copper or steel tube in , use hot air .but why bother, do electric ( thinking about wcfb — this stuff , cover looks the same to me .) As far as stock ram , piston can’t really wear , and you may be fooled by looseness as it goes in ( I was till I thought about it ) but vacuum integrity all through this matters , and the blanked ram heat housing and link designed for external rod or choke stove is unique . This kit has to use heated coil on top of carb? But some mix of old and new might work . issue you describe might be crud or someone “adjusted “ manifold coil ? piston effectively is pulling on that rod , maybe why later coke stoves nave a loose top cap so rod can’t scrape or hook? Go electric ! I bet they stay in sync . TBD Stock design has too many variables to do that well , close but not always . Why rams were pulled in the day . One on choke one off is not a smooth idle? jkg Sent from my iPhone On May 3, 2023, at 1:32 PM, John Nowosacki <jsnowosacki@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
While I don't usually have much trouble with setting the original choke assembly for proper cold closure and fast idle adjustment, I am suspicious that the pull off piston no longer seals in its bore/cylinder as it did when new, so I don't get enough pull-off action upon start up, almost as if the vacuum pulling on the piston isn't strong enough to overcome the force of the thermostatic spring. Could I potentially use this electric conversion kit to just replace the pull off piston assembly/action and not the electric spring/cap/wiring and still use the original choke system but maybe get a better choke pull off action? Dyke — that was a great post .
Changing whole carb as some have done takes away a very good part of ram carb , the special idle air valve , which lets both carbs close fully —preventing possible linkage stop issues from interfering with two idle throttle stops etc on stock AFB .
I have an F I converted to manual choke like a J or max wedge , it was a bad mistake ( score a big one for the originality guys!) .
So now , seeing your post , I went right at keeping the factory carbs working as designed , like you did , — but fixing the erratic F thermal warmup choke ( why I had the manual ideas) .
But Edelbrock wants 95 for that kit . Ripoff .
So wrote to them trying to buy idle pull off piston , arm and that link with tab . Response “ only available in kit “ 2$ part if that . looked at soldering a new brass tab to old arm etc . I think it can be done .
But -
In process of doing this i find National Carbs in Jacksonville Fl on ebay They have a kit FFP-1478-ECK to do this 47.45 each . Hard to see what is in it on e bay pix , but decided to take a chance . 2 kits . Save 100 $
Came next day (!) , in this kit is a whole new die cast choke mechanism housing that attaches to carb by three screws , the 4 th hole is a vacuum passage — they arranged an o ring recess in new piece right there to seal vacuum feed .
Already in it is a new piston arm and link with a round pin sticking out to engage the heater coil that is covered in a slippery plastic . Better than carter or edelbrock . no sticking nice and smooth action . Smart .
heater Coil itself is very well
made . Impressive . new black cover too , might work modified somewhat on other heat choke designs , like air draw , / vacuum which is still functional with this electric . Not done right —you can cause a vacuum leak (I learned stuff from all this ) . Black plastic can is under full manifold vacuum , — always wondered why a gasket there . Now we know .
I have not put in the car yet , assumption being if Edelbrock fit , as you describe this does too .
Big step ahead I think , throw away exhaust heat riser valve , restriction it causes , and associated hassles like a melted ram bottom ( happened to me .. they rust stuck shut ) and both sides coming off choke at different rates . = Stalling
thank you Dyke !
john g
Sent from my iPhone
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/0A23CFFB-976D-4A33-9A4F-226F2683A0AA%40gradyresearch.com.
--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/EAEA7F9C-53B7-4B18-B951-9CBB207CF379%40gradyresearch.com.
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap