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Hi Ron, I sent a follow up response, and it went into a black hole… I pulled the kick panel and found a set of fried wires. I also noted the base of the wire going into the door light switch was a melted mess, but it was still working as was all but one of the other three windows. The breaker is there and is working but it is upstream. It probably tripped until the wire melted. I also probably had a small voltage drain as well. The wires run from the breaker out to each of the individual switches other than the drivers master switch. The melt down happened between the three wires and the steel webbing in the kick panel. An abrasion failure?
I will have to splice in some new wire. Perhaps I will splice in three inline fuses. James From: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
James – While I can’t speak for a 64 Chrysler, I know that on my 55 (Desoto) and 59 (Dodge), both power window cars, there are circuit breakers behind the kick panel to prevent
a shorted wire from turning into something more serious. Did someone remove or bypass those on your car ? What does the power window schematic show ? Ron From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International
Well, I found the problem quick. As soon as I removed the left kick panel. I could see burned fiberglass. It looks like the door switch shorted out and the three wires to the rear for the local window switches fried. Or it may be that the three wires to the local window switches fried, and the metal got so hot that the wire to the door switch
melted and grounded. In any event, I may consider splicing these wires with some in-line fuses and replacing the door jam switch with a new one. I do wonder if this was a mechanical abrasion issue, a door jam issue or a wire overload issue. Perhaps I should put in a new 30 am breaker or change it to a fuse… In any event a fun mess. James From: 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Anyone know off hand the location of the W-2, W-3, W-4 splice point on the window lifts? My driver’s side rear switch will not work at the window. The master at the driver’s door works fine. I checked the switch, and it is fine. The center feed to the switch is dead. That wire on the schematic looks like a factory furnace splice someplace. It is after the circuit breaker. Before I go hunting for it, I am hoping someone can tell me where it is to save me some time. It is also possible that all three
of the wires are ring terminals onto the circuit breaker, but I have not gone hunting yet. All the other switches are fine. I am assuming a wire problem someplace. Thanks, James -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB6171722B2622209DC3688D6D932EA%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com. |
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