The changes I made on the 300K using a brand new power master alt with a digital VR has been working great and I can dial in the voltage to just where I want it. Not stock of course but for daily driving very nice. I did however have to
deal with the fact that if I had a dead battery that new Alt would put out 90 AMPS so I had to deal with the bulkhead connector and the small wires.
Some work, but it functions great.
James.
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of John Grady
Sent: Tuesday, November 7, 2023 10:27 AM
To: Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Carl <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>; john begian <r2gthawk@xxxxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Re: 1961 Wide Fin Alternator single field replacing a two field squareback alternator?
exactly my experience , pried one open (?the one with red wire hanging out , overcharged on road trip way back cost me a 200$ battery ) Twice had them fail by shorting to full charge all the time .” solid state reliability”
Inside was a custom silicon IC cost someone in Asia 20- 40 cents once designed , but not designed with enough margin , about 1/2” squsre junk
Keep your mechanical and a point file
Rock Auto still has the SMP mechanical regulator, $35 each. I just ordered two. I’ve been running the Regitar brand electronic regulators that look like the mechanical ones, black box etc, but no resistors on the rear that’s how you know.
These absolutely suck. They charge at 15.5 volts above idle unless lights and AC are on.
I thought it was bad. Had two more new ones. Installed 1, same thing. I’ll try the old fashioned SMP.
Danny Plotkin
hi Carl , basically you cannot use new regulator on old alternator .
Rather than specific wires , here is an understanding how it works :
old one you put + 12 v ign directly into regulator , points vibrate to vary the OUT + volts to the field ( + F ) terminal at alternator, it is at whoever value it needs such that ignition wire feeding the old regulator ( and whole car)
is held at 13.8 or so . Other end of the old alternator field is grounded inside old alternator . So one wire with varying +V on it .
New one , all they had then to go solid state was NPN power transistor , the emitter has to be grounded (-) as base voltage has to be higher + than emitter to turn it on . If wired like old one 12 v through regulator you would need 15
v , ( 14 * .7 “on “ voltage ) to fully do that at 14 V out You don’t have it .
So what they Did is put constant 12 v into field all the time ( blue wire to ign * and to one F terminal ) then control the ground end ( green) of field by going through transistor to ground inside silver regulator so two brushes two
F . Called “low side switch”
No way to use old alternator with that regulator design . ( aftermarket junk tries to , don’t go there)
Other blue wire at a mopar silver regulator goes to 12 ignition blue too , that powers the regulator and tells it what the ign voits are .
Guy did the right thing big step up —much better setup .
The mopar electronic ignition in instructions says not compatible with old setup ( without special 1 wire retrofit regulator ) as vibrating points can cause interference to spark pickup and volt surges (?moderately swinging ammeter is normal
as regulator points open and close , flickering headlights too ( ok) although points will burn a bit , that is indication of end of life , swings get large . Maybe 50 k miles . you can file or clean ( must remove bumps) to get it ok — Don’t adjust or
lose factory setting of lock screw .
So ,on your guy , Carl, — he did a good job , leave that part alone ?
What difference does shape of alternator really make in our world? New regulator far better won’t die or go crazy , steady ammeter , better alternator output too , especially at idle .
But if keeping the old , keep mechanical regulator too , use one wire from F to regulator , hot side of old regulator goes to ign hot at ballast ( Don’t get wrong end of ballast that goes to coil ) .regularity HAS to be right way around
or you instantly blow it up. Grounding field on one wire ( “ to test”) by guy who does not know what he is doing instantly blows it up too .
Standard auto parts still selling good mechanical one at Rockauto , black cover etc i bought 4-5 of them before gone , good price too.
From above , note you can easily use new 2 wire alternator with one wire regulator just ground the other brush F . Makes it a one wire .
PS as you know , you absolutely need vacuum advance , otherwise 6 mpg , and has to be right vacuum advance can for ram motor — . the old J distributor will work BETTER in terms of spark ( no 1 volt solid state internal drop happens with
points ) and it has the right fairly critical advance curve for J .
Of course , for a 300 lover , checking points is a huge job on a B block every 15 k miles or so ( laugh) .
Use dwell meter off ebay , less than 2 minutes ,don’t even lift cap! vs two days trying to figure out intermittent electronic junk ,,wiring and added failure modes . And I am an EE
Why Grandma likes the orange box.. or pertronix , great in a Slant six .
Adds reliability , loses performance somewhat in terms of output over dual
points , Granatelli 190 .
John and John,
I bought a G last summer and looking at the car tonight I see that the prior owner has installed a new, updated wiring harness and a square back 1970’s style 2 field alternator, along with a 1970’s style Mopar electronic voltage regulator
mounted on the core support (along with a Mopar electronic ignition module), original regulator is gone! John Begian is getting me the correct ’61 wide fin alternator, which would be a single field. John G or John B – how can I connect the single field
’61 alternator into this wring harness? Do I just connect the green field wire but leave the other field wire disconnected??? But will that work with the 1970’s style electronic regulator??
The prior owner is a nice fella but he was trying to “upgrade” this G to more modern components. The original distributor is gone and in its place is a 1980’s vintage Mopar Performance mechanical tach drive electronic distributor (no vacuum
advance) with the external Mopar ignition box mounted on the core support. I’m OK with electronic ignition – I have it on all my cars. I just don’t know how to connect the correct ’61 alternator with the Mopar electronic regulator and a two field wire harness.
Carl
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