| Hi John yes I did wonder if that would be better- I think it’s 5/16-18 and thought about putting studs for using nuts instead of the hex head cap screws… may end up doing that… Thanks!
Had a request for the photos of the broken exhaust elbow bolts, pilot holes, etc because they didn’t come through on earlier email:
I still have drilling to do on the other hole (aft hole). Need a drill bit extension to get a straight shot. I am also ordering a tool from McMaster Carr to hold the tap. It’s a little hard to get a straight line aim, and have clearance (intake studs sticking down, and steering box), to work the tap properly with a traditional tap wrench. So, I will get a longer tap holder, like this:
Getting the threads right is critical, especially on a manifold I would not be able to replace. So I want to ensure good aim and alignment. It will be handy in the future for other jobs too, I’m sure.
D&K Sent from my iPhone On Feb 27, 2024, at 07:40, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
on this , one thing I learned from Packard engineering ( and earlier mopar) is to use studs and nuts in typical problem areas , and nuts and bolts on exhaust pipe flsnges one size smaller but SS . The studs let you bottom in blind holes so no stripping or bottoming out, and rusted in place no problem — and one piece of thread gets you all bolt sizes .Packard went even further with fine thread and extra tall brass nuts on exhaust .Some mopar had this too . I added belleville washers and stainless thin washers so manifolds can slide slightly , after changing a few slant six and Packard broken in the middle . just sayin… Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 26, 2024, at 8:24 PM, dave mason <forwardlook300@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thanks Bob!
Got the passenger side elbow nuts and bolts off and applied anti seize and re installed, one at a time. This way should be an easy job to install block offs.
The driver side didn’t go so well, and both bolts snapped off before loosening. Even with kroil.
On the plus side, I’m documenting the process of drilling out the broken bolts and fixing the threads.
Broken bolts with transfer punch divit:
<IMG_4041.jpeg>
Pilot holes drilled all the way through the broken bolts (1/16”):
<IMG_4053.jpeg>
Holes almost drilled out:
<IMG_4059.jpeg>
Have to tap holes tomorrow. Gotta do something special for the other hole because steering box blocks a straight shot.
<IMG_4078.jpeg>
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 26, 2024, at 09:04, Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Yes, I make the block off shims. There are 2 styles, see
http://www.simplexco.com/auto/heattube/1.html
Everything you need to know is on the page.
Bob
On 2/26/2024 8:53 AM, dave mason wrote:
Thanks all for the replies. This answers another thought i had which is can you use regular exhaust manifolds with cross rams and just run the car in warm weather, foregoing any carb heating or use electric choke etc. Answer is “no” if elbow is required to support weight of intakes.
Bob you make block off plates for the elbows? I will order some if so, and drill the hole, otherwise use a brass freeze plug. Trying to make a driver, and so don’t want to prematurely melt the intakes with potentially lots of miles.
Just replaced plugs (NGK XR5IX) and wires. Removed rusty steel flange bolts and replaced with stainless. I want to make it easy for the exhaust guy and reduce chances of manifold damage. I have a guy who is good with old cars who is a mechanic and does custom exhaust; he has never done a F or G though. Will see if I can get the riser tubes separately from waldrons. Getting ready to remove heat riser pipe and elbow nuts/bolts, apply anti seize, and re install (again to make it easy on exhaust guy). As for heat risers inside manifolds, Driver side heat butterfly operates freely, passenger is froze and likely mostly closed going by position of counterweight. Will have to deal with that during exhaust job.
Been working outside; but hasn’t been 19 here. As long as it’s over 40 I’m good 😊.
Today 66…
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2024, at 06:50, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Dave
the reason for two pipes is it is a loop, there is a detail in the exhaust manifold that sends the hot gas into the elbow , it has to exit out or it would not work ? it goes out by the short pipes to muffler
on these what is good is to put washers in the elbow or thin sheet metal like SS or copper with a!1/4” hole to slow down gases . then get rid of flap inside manifold . Don Cole uses a core plug . .
It never works right ( why they dropped this in 62 due to many hassles ) and in 63/64 complelely different choke . If heat sticks on as it sits (full on at rest and rusts in that position -) w flap on — car runs awful and the real issue is chokes are always uneven pull off . You can mess with it , but runs funky till calmed down .one on one off is very unhappy place Leave springs etc outside looks stock Less restriction to exhaust too .
If stuck flap and you get on it hard long enough you melt floor of rams . Been there too .
People think carbs are bad — they are being cooked or one is
Those exhaust manifolds are rare and very fragile .NEVER hang head pipe on flange while installing muffler , you will snap it right off .Has to be supported to rear . Have dealt with results of this twice over my 300 time . I did not do it but others had Cost 1000 to fix at stitch and weld , I used NYer ones in one car over that , it is ok if temps over 45 0r so , and even less you can still go but warm up is until engine is at 180 .
As to “ put stock “ etc notice Edelbrock success with “ air gap “ manifolds , they got rid of heat passages . Works fine
just fyi stuff
J
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 25, 2024, at 6:17 AM, Bob Merritt <Bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
You can get the exh heat riser pipes from Waldron’s Exhaust, P. O. Box 99, 208 West Main, Centreville, MI., 49032. (269) 467-7185 or (800) 503-9428. http://www.waldronexhaust.com
I don't know if anybody else doing them.
You need the manifold elbow to support the weight of the ram.
Rcvd your 63 64 grille clips. Thanks. I am just now getting into the J grille.
Inside work is a good thing to be doing in 19 degree temps...........love a warm garage!
Bob
On 2/24/2024 5:07 PM, dave mason wrote:
Hi Jamie
I know John Grady carries heat riser elbows, but have I missed the source for the longer F/G heat riser pipes?
I know some folks block them off anyway, but we are getting ready to do a F exhaust soon and would have the option to leave out the pipes or get new ones. These on the car have holes in them.
Do you guys know why they designed the things with both a riser pipe and a manifold elbow? Seems overkill.
Thanks!
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
-- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang--- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/AE6C389B-164D-477C-9617-43F1F0387202%40gradyresearch.com.
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/7D011414-DC20-4ABA-AD0C-398793EDD2FF%40yahoo.com.
|
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network
Archive Sitemap
