RE: {Chrysler 300} RE: ‘63 Chrysler fuel/temp gauge GAUGES in general

["'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If one goes into the archives, one can read about what I did last year on my 300K with respect to this issue.

If has worked just fine, and the regulator is strapped to the steering column, and I can change out the regulator in 10 minutes without opening up the dash. I keep a spare regulator in the car.

James

-----Original Message-----
From: 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Friday, April 19, 2024 07:34
To: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} RE: ‘63 Chrysler fuel/temp gauge GAUGES in general

John all good info and to add to this, regulator (“limiter”) is indeed in the fuel gauge in 63-64.  One comment about just replacing these gauges.  (I’ve done this before myself so it is not an admonishment).  But I’ve found it’s more useful to check what you have going on before replacing the gauge(s).  This is two-fold: 1) it will lead you to the problem and 2) it will lessen the variables.  

On the back of the printed circuit card for 63-64 that houses the temp and fuel gauges, there is a 5-pin termination for the traces.  One of these pins provides the 12V to the PC Card for the fuel gauge.  I think it is the second from the right as you are sitting in the driver’s seat looking at the dash but that’s just memory… I have many times seen a loose connection here where the 5-pin connector attaches that results in no volts to the fuel gauge.  Keep this in mind if you aren’t already, since replacing gauges means taking this connector off and on.  On the back of the fuel gauge you should be getting 12v at “I” (input) and 5.5V or so at “A” (adjusted).  The “S” is for the fuel Sender connection.  The 5.5 volts at “A” supplies the adjusted voltage to the temp gauge as well via the PC Card.  If you have both gauges going high it sounds like a failing limiter, as john mentions.   If you get nothing, it could be a loose 5-pin connector or another bad gauge or the headlight switch perhaps.  But an easy way to check this, ground the sending wire for the fuel and/or temp gauge for a few seconds; the gauge should climb all the way right, if powered up. 

Mark i am not sure but power may indeed route through the headlight switch.  If there is melted plastic I’d consider replacing that with a new one because they are available at Napa.  There is a thermostatic cut out built into the switch.  Sometimes those don’t operate as they should (cutting out too soon or too late).  This could possibly explain your melted plastic?  I have had one bad one out of the box, and several that worked great.  Roll of the dice.  

D&K

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2024, at 09:48, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> pegging all the way especially if more than one is not the gauge , it 
> is the gauge regulator . The gauges run on an average of 5 v obtained 
> by  pulsing 12 on and off.— such that average is5 v ( you can see the little jumps about every half second when working right as you first turn on car ) Sometimes regulators are in one of the gauges , sometimes a little can outside . That is usually  better  , and can be converted . 67 dart for instance uses the can but you need to understand how to wire this if converting .
> Another approach is to use 7805 5 v IC regulator  , has to be bolted 
> to metal for heat sink , easy to do for a radio type guy Rather sadly 
> , if they sit  pegged on full or high due to bad regulators sending 12 v where 5 should be , one  can burn up the little heater winding thing in the  gauge , can’t be fixed ( little heater will be all black and burned in gauge ) some discoloration is normal but not  carbon color . A new gauge will burn right up too , but depends  on sender position at the time you might get lucky … or if unlucky  hurts both  gauge and sender if near F or H hot Even worse a burned gauge can short out the 5 v from a new regulator as the heater insulation burns off , allowing heater winding to touch the grounded metal .
> If that happens it blows up the regulator .again  which then blows the ( ? new?) gauges  again ! 
> Test of gauge : Put 6 v “ lantern  battery  “ on gauge terminals that go to heater , it should move up slowly to F or H . Check terminals to ground of 2 pin winding gauge to metal frame with ohm  meter should be no connection . Now you have a good gauge . Do not try to adjust , you will be sad if you do . 
> Once gauges are good new regulator or new gauge with regulator in it or conversion gets you going . Regulator fairly reliable but if no ground in cluster ( that little jumper wire in 60-62  ) it will not regulate —  this happens .
> Why as mentioned before , solder a wire to metal of gauge cluster mounts , run to solid ground in dash . Factory used sheet metal screws into plastic , to hold ground a sad joke re engineering , even sadder outcome .
> And some guys will not know  about this leave off the ground or 
> stripped/ loose  screws later cars have PC card , hard wire the ground 
> trace to metal with a soldered wire. . Pins in connector get loose 
> solder  those too hope this helps you , John
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 18, 2024, at 3:32 PM, mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks for all the responses.  Mark
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2024 2:27 PM
>> To: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} RE: ‘63 Chrysler fuel/temp gauge
>> 
>> There are a few but I bet you are thinking of
>> 
>> J C Auto Restoration, 20815 52nd Ave W#2, Lynnwood, WA., 98036.
>> 425-672-8324 Fax 425-771-2522. Jeff Carter. Gauge repair and power pack rebuilt. Also 300 medallions, lenses, and a large parts inventory.
>> parts@xxxxxxxxxx
>> 
>> 
>>>> On 4/18/2024 3:07 PM, mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> I can't locate the name/company that rebuilds the Gas Gauges.  If someone has that information, please send it over again.  I would like to get a quote.  Thank you.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> Mark Lindahl
>>> '63 300 Conv.
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Mark Lindahl <mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 7, 2023 5:13 PM
>>> To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> Subject: ‘63 Chrysler fuel/temp gauge
>>> 
>>> Hello All,
>>> 
>>> Thanks for all the good suggestions. The headlight connector is somewhat melted (see picture)and I didn’t notice this earlier so I thought the 12v may have lost connection due to this connector.
>>> 
>>> The lights do work, but when I see melted plastic and then no power to the temp/gas gauge, I start to wonder.
>>> 
>>> I had an intermittent gas gauge. My 2nd used replacement gas gauge pegged all the way to full and also the temp gauge pegged all the way to super hot when the engine was cold.
>>> 
>>> The third used gas gauge powered up with 5v on a bench test, but when I pot it all together, all of a sudden no power. Both gauges are slumped all the way to the left. I have used light switches but if there is no direct link, then I won’t worry about the light switch.
>>> 
>>> BTW, melted terminal is black wire in the corner of the connector. Maybe this is another problem (bulkhead?)..
>>> 
>>> 300ly,
>>> Mark Lindahl
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> --
>> For archives go to 
>> http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
>> ---
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/014701da91c7%242163f7d0%24642be770%24%40sbcglobal.net.
> 
> --
> For archives go to 
> http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
> ---
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
> To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/709520C5-D915-4F6D-8A3C-B3C0DD07D27A%40gradyresearch.com.

--
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
---
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/6442F745-4DD3-4F98-9F6C-703FF40B1F51%40yahoo.com.

-- 
For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.
To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/CY5PR19MB6171D794D05EC85DFB2B4499930D2%40CY5PR19MB6171.namprd19.prod.outlook.com.