Re: {Chrysler 300} Dodge truck? big heads up for you
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Re: {Chrysler 300} Dodge truck? big heads up for you



hi i would just say we are not talking efficacy of brakes . They are good unlike dodges of 80’s with toy size discs 
we’re taking longevity in salted areas . zero

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On May 15, 2024, at 7:46 PM, MICHAEL SKOLONES <skolones.michael@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 with the diesel, 330k miles on it now, much of it towing. Best brakes I've ever had, although I would say the brakes on my '84 Volvo 240 were as good.. Yes, they require maintenance. I replace the hoses, calipers and rotors every 100,000 miles or so. Occasionally I have had a caliper fail at less mileage. I have replaced the hard lines with the new Nickel-Copper, love that stuff. I used that on my Mini Cooper too, will use it on all my projects going forward.
 
The worst brakes I've ever had were on an '86 Dodge 3500 camper van. Rear drums would warp after the first run through mountains after a rebuild, and the adjusters never worked. Front calipers froze regularly.  Mopar quality has improved a lot since then. So far I'm impressed with the brakes on my '21 Grand Cherokee, I bought the upgraded brakes for towing, and they work great. But they are too new for a full assessment. 
 
The scariest brakes I've had were on my '53 Imperial. The remote booster was problematic and the master cylinder was too.  I deployed the driveshaft-based parking brake regularly in traffic.
 
I'm quite happy with the brakes on my '64 K, but they were already perfect when I bought it (thanks Don Cole!), so I've only had to do normal maintenance on them so far.
 
-Mike
On 05/15/2024 5:57 PM EDT ROBERT HAAG <scooter465@xxxxxxx> wrote:
 
 
Talking about bad break
Design. I had a 2000 Chrysler Sebring blow a rear wheel cylinder 50 miles from home.
So I figure it is a dual system I still have the front
Brake system to make it home. So I start back home
Every stop pedal starts getting lower. So I nurse
It home. Ck master now no fluid in front or rear master.
The two master cylinder resoviers are connected
Front disk is feeding rear
Drum resovier.
So what is the point of a dual system crazy.
A dual system crazy.
Bob Haag
 
On May 15, 2024, at 3:19 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
 
I had a lot of trouble with my 2012 Dodge truck , 4 wd Hemi shortbed brakes a few years back ,one front disc started dragging smoke and all the “on the main highway hassle “
on the way to pick up 300 windshield 300 miles away , so counts as 300 related ( right?) . As in really bad . So found good Mopar guy in brake shop in Harrisburg Pa , I saw a ~ 2005 c300 customized outside , just closing 6 pm saturday night . I was in panic — cant drive the truck
Great Mopar guy helped me , new calipers and pads . He stayed after closing .
 
Continued , 75 miles more next day after unplanned overnight , same thing same side . Sprayed with water at firehouse started using E brake on highway . All the way back to Boston — not fun . Made it without touching brake pedal .
Changed it again , at home , another new high end caliper , was seemingly ok . Very bothered by what is going on , ( will it happen again?)
never really found out anything satisfying about the why . Still like that . …..
 
Lest you think easy —- remember ABS controls each one , gets into unbelievable (needless to me ) complexity about what ABS or master / booster might be or might not be doing . . End of day , = thoroughly screwed up unreliable brakes — no matter the nice fairy story about advancements .
So another Dodge truck I have 2013 250 did same thing a few months back , both sides … bought all new stuff , just put all on , ( everything on a mopar rusts solid these days , including all brake and front end bolts — chinese rustproofing of cheap fasteners ) . They Save 2$ . At least .
 
Having had this dance card before , went on line . Happening to all of them. Huge hassles new brakes just burn up .
Lots of wrong info / opinions from guys who never touched a brake pad .
 
But finally one smart guy posted a thing I did not believe at first but also the diagnostic thing he used worked.
 
He said sub intelligent design on a beefy clamp holding frame end of hose rusts INSIDE the clamp squeezing the hose OD restricting flow ( hard to believe right ?) . So he said when wheel is dragging ( it does so even parked/ stopped) crack the bleeder , if it releases hose may be clogged ( it released , so , yes, caliper is fine (!!) all of them were fine (!!) . Then crack the connection to hard line after closing bleeder , step on brake — if it stays locked after, it is hose for sure . How he found , in his opinion, the clamp did it . clamp or not, it IS the hose
Just try and crack that fitting …or remove that clamp — just try . Mopar coated brake lines with plastic of some kind ( after the dakota dissolving brake lines fiasco) but still junk steel line is bare under the nut , — as the coating ends just before flare nut ; said nut has no coating either — rusts into a solid rust ball with line . HEY mopar— you have a totally STUPID design . If you somehow grab what is left of nut ( nicely pocketed) you twist off the end of the line . A new party starts .
 
It gets better .
 
That nut is some screwball metric thread different than the rest of world metric brake nut . NAPA = big zero . Metric that they have for you is a different thread pitch . Same diameter .So you strip hose end … maybe .
Now two days into this , plus 1000 $ +
and the two days blown last time comes into mind . Topping 2500 in time and money now even doing it all yourself .
 
So we had to get new lines replace them due to them saving .04 on flare nut and clamp rust proofing — had to hand make the lines ( of the new good copper alloy stuff) and — finally ended up having to DRILL out the remains of tube to use mangled old nut on our new flare .
 
Compare all this sad story to our letter cars ,— the little 90 degree flag holding hose hard line connection to frame —with clip ; the way this was done with zero problems ever — for 80 years. 37 Packard same way
And one even can imagine brass or SS nuts , but they must cost ..04 more . = Screw the customer with junk nut in a critical place …
Irritating beyond belief . all this cost me thousdadds of dollars in motel , brake parts days of aggravation and hassle . And 3-4 days of my life fighting the design of an utter moron that is on every dodge truck . So if your brakes drag , now you know why .
One guy on line had this happen and it burned his truck to the ground
Tempted to buy a Ford next time .
John
 
ps, 40 years ago I got into a crash when
brake line burst on a 62 dodge , my driver , panic stop .
I wrote Feds about people with less income are victimized by this , older used cars do it, and dual masters are not the answer , stainless lines are . I have had a line burst on dual
master , almost no braking left pedal goes to within 1/2” of floor . Yet that , they mandated .
A woman engineer at NHTSA or whatever it is writes back to me “ they cost too much to
mandate “
next day i had our purchasing dept price 20 feet of steel line and 20 feet of SS , 8$ different .
I sent it to her . Nothing happened .
i bet could have saved 1000’s of lives , maybe 10000.
I am hoping a recall of all dodge trucks . they deserve it
 
 
 
 
Sent from my iPhone
 
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