Design. I had a 2000 Chrysler Sebring blow a rear wheel cylinder 50 miles from home.
Brake system to make it home. So I start back home
Every stop pedal starts getting lower. So I nurse
It home. Ck master now no fluid in front or rear master.
I had a lot of trouble with my 2012 Dodge truck , 4 wd Hemi shortbed brakes a few years back ,one front disc started dragging smoke and all the “on the main highway hassle “
on the way to pick up 300 windshield 300 miles away , so counts as 300 related ( right?) . As in really bad . So found good Mopar guy in brake shop in Harrisburg Pa , I saw a ~ 2005 c300 customized outside , just closing 6 pm saturday night . I was in panic — cant drive the truck
Great Mopar guy helped me , new calipers and pads . He stayed after closing .
Continued , 75 miles more next day after unplanned overnight , same thing same side . Sprayed with water at firehouse started using E brake on highway . All the way back to Boston — not fun . Made it without touching brake pedal .
Changed it again , at home , another new high end caliper , was seemingly ok . Very bothered by what is going on , ( will it happen again?)
never really found out anything satisfying about the why . Still like that . …..
Lest you think easy —- remember ABS controls each one , gets into unbelievable (needless to me ) complexity about what ABS or master / booster might be or might not be doing . . End of day , = thoroughly screwed up unreliable brakes — no matter the nice fairy story about advancements .
So another Dodge truck I have 2013 250 did same thing a few months back , both sides … bought all new stuff , just put all on , ( everything on a mopar rusts solid these days , including all brake and front end bolts — chinese rustproofing of cheap fasteners ) . They Save 2$ . At least .
Having had this dance card before , went on line . Happening to all of them. Huge hassles new brakes just burn up .
Lots of wrong info / opinions from guys who never touched a brake pad .
But finally one smart guy posted a thing I did not believe at first but also the diagnostic thing he used worked.
He said sub intelligent design on a beefy clamp holding frame end of hose rusts INSIDE the clamp squeezing the hose OD restricting flow ( hard to believe right ?) . So he said when wheel is dragging ( it does so even parked/ stopped) crack the bleeder , if it releases hose may be clogged ( it released , so , yes, caliper is fine (!!) all of them were fine (!!) . Then crack the connection to hard line after closing bleeder , step on brake — if it stays locked after, it is hose for sure . How he found , in his opinion, the clamp did it . clamp or not, it IS the hose
Just try and crack that fitting …or remove that clamp — just try . Mopar coated brake lines with plastic of some kind ( after the dakota dissolving brake lines fiasco) but still junk steel line is bare under the nut , — as the coating ends just before flare nut ; said nut has no coating either — rusts into a solid rust ball with line . HEY mopar— you have a totally STUPID design . If you somehow grab what is left of nut ( nicely pocketed) you twist off the end of the line . A new party starts .
It gets better .
That nut is some screwball metric thread different than the rest of world metric brake nut . NAPA = big zero . Metric that they have for you is a different thread pitch . Same diameter .So you strip hose end … maybe .
Now two days into this , plus 1000 $ +
and the two days blown last time comes into mind . Topping 2500 in time and money now even doing it all yourself .
So we had to get new lines replace them due to them saving .04 on flare nut and clamp rust proofing — had to hand make the lines ( of the new good copper alloy stuff) and — finally ended up having to DRILL out the remains of tube to use mangled old nut on our new flare .
Compare all this sad story to our letter cars ,— the little 90 degree flag holding hose hard line connection to frame —with clip ; the way this was done with zero problems ever — for 80 years. 37 Packard same way
And one even can imagine brass or SS nuts , but they must cost ..04 more . = Screw the customer with junk nut in a critical place …
Irritating beyond belief . all this cost me thousdadds of dollars in motel , brake parts days of aggravation and hassle . And 3-4 days of my life fighting the design of an utter moron that is on every dodge truck . So if your brakes drag , now you know why .
One guy on line had this happen and it burned his truck to the ground
Tempted to buy a Ford next time .
John
ps, 40 years ago I got into a crash when
brake line burst on a 62 dodge , my driver , panic stop .
I wrote Feds about people with less income are victimized by this , older used cars do it, and dual masters are not the answer , stainless lines are . I have had a line burst on dual
master , almost no braking left pedal goes to within 1/2” of floor . Yet that , they mandated .
A woman engineer at NHTSA or whatever it is writes back to me “ they cost too much to
mandate “
next day i had our purchasing dept price 20 feet of steel line and 20 feet of SS , 8$ different .
I sent it to her . Nothing happened .
i bet could have saved 1000’s of lives , maybe 10000.
I am hoping a recall of all dodge trucks . they deserve it
Sent from my iPhone
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