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I have been running my 1940’s Desoto’s on 6 volt for two plus decades without much drama. EXCEPT. SOME of the mechanical voltage regulators will over charge an optima 6V battery particularly
if you are driving it every day. Look up my old post on this subject. Correct large cables, good grounds and 6 Volt works fine. One thing I do is to take ground flat straps and “jump” the motor mounts from the block to the frame. I also add at least two engine
to firewall ground leads and I also add a body to frame ground lead at the rear of the car. Lastly, I make up a set of #10 round wires and run them from the back side of the headlight buckets to the battery ground wire. James From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Behalf Of Ron Waters Also note that this guy’s ‘expert’ mechanic cranked up his voltage regulator to the point where his battery is overcharging and leaking acid onto the holddown strap,
causing noticeable corrosion. Ron From: John Lazenby This is not a Letter Car but many things cross over thus my comments. I spent over five years restoring a like example and know the workings well. I currently have three 6 volt Chryslers and once installed with heavy battery cables, good and a strong battery (I use Optima 6 volts in a case) ZERO issues with cranking
and starting. Years ago when we had our first C300 there were starting issues and I went to the 6/12 battery which worked but it looked terrible, was expensive and short life. Ken Brody approached me and said I can fix that. My first reaction was you don't know what you are talking about but after desperation I let Ken do his thing. From that
day forward ZERO issues and that has been close to 30 years. Our newest C300 had cranking and starting issues even with a new 6 volt Optima battery. There was a list of repairs needed and one of them was correct battery cables. Brad
Brody came over and made them correct size for the application using heaving cables. Once installed and on the first crank she fired and has done so ever since. So on that issue I agree with Ron Waters and would not call it an upgrade. Other items noted in he video (and I'm not to the end yet) was incorrect brake master and booster, wrong upper radiator hose and the list could go on. The owner states Desert Rose for the top color which it may be but not from the factor because that color wasn't offered until 1956. More than likely it was Canyon Tan which
was a 1955 color. Now for my personal pet peeve, Kelsey Hayes wire wheels. KH was not the builder but MotorRim was. They were a factory option from 1953 through 1956. If you doubt me on
this remove a tire and look at the stamping on the rim and it will verify this. Last, Chrysler Imperial ended with the 1954 models and in 1955 simply became IMPERIAL. This name remained for several years. John Lazenby On Sunday, June 30, 2024 at 09:02:51 AM PDT, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
It’s not an ‘upgrade’. It’s jury-rigging for folks that don’t want to rebuild their starters or replace their crusty, oxidized wiring harnesses. Ron From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Behalf Of Henry Schleimer Lou Costabile video just out on a survivor 55 Imperial. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohRwS6HFX64 Meets relevance rules because Chrysler 300 gets a mention. Thought it might be of interest because the owner discusses
upgrading 6 Volt system to 8 Volt which I hadn’t heard of before. Henry --
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