--Hello All -
Regarding the brake master cylinders - does anyone have a junk M/C from a 1957 300C that they have given up on and have no more use for? I am thinking of making a remote reservoir arrangement to solve the cussed difficulty of replenishing the M/C fluid when bleeding brakes and need only the top cap from that junk M/C; I plan to weld/braze a tube to that cap and snake it out sideways under and around the booster to connect to a small plastic brake fluid reservoir. This would be similar to a "dipstick" modification I saw somewhere in the 300Club archives. I'll take some photos along the way and add it to the Tech Articles if it comes out as I hope.
Has anyone else done this - and how did it work out?
Ray Melton Las Cruces, NM 1957 Chrysler 300C cvt White/Gauguin "Big Red" s/n 3N572517 (575)642-3151
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On 7/1/2024 5:14 PM, Carl Bilter wrote:
I hesitate to write a post that sounds like whining, but I think it is a valid heads up and a statement about the current availability/quality of master cylinders for 56-61 300s (and other Mopars).
After much searching, and much to my delight, I found a listing on ebay that offered a "made in USA" brand new master cylinder for the above mentioned cars:
Turns out that the seller is Andy Bernbaum, with whom historically I have had good experiences.
So I ordered the part, and when it arrived, much to my disappointment, the part did not match the photo in the listing, as it does not say "made in USA" on the boot or anywhere else on the part.No manufacturer box or instruction sheet was included either indicating country of origin. The part was absolutely IDENTICAL to the Chinese made master cylinder that I had recently bouight at O'Reilly Auto Parts for $10 less! It will fit of course, but will be no better quality than the part I already have. So I am returning the part.
The problem I'm having with the new Chinese made master cytlinders (all of them) is that they leak from the cap! No matter how tight, or how full or not the reservior is with fluid (I'm using DOT5 silicone), the cap/gasket will not seal well. I do not have this issue with my older American made masters cylinders or even the Chinese master cylinders from a few years ago. The casting looks ok as does the gasket material. I chalk it up to poor quality. I may try doubling up the gasket? Running out of ideas. The cap bolt is also metric spec now (10mm hex head) - all of them - rather than the familiar 7/16" that was used even just a few years ago. And yes, I bench bled the master per instructions, and actually, the Raybestos master (Chinese) says to not bench bleed or you will destroy the piston seal; so you bleed on the car (and waste fluid).
The plug in the bottom port will tend to leak some as well, despite using thread sealer, but that's not a new issue and some of the older American made units will do that as well.
Other than leaking, the Chinese made masters seem to function well.
Anyone else having this issue? Solutions?
Carl B
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