I had great luck with Eastwood's brush-on "stainless" product. Applied to freshly bead-blasted Fenton iron headers, looks good 20 years later, easy to touch up if needed. As with all paint products, don't know if formula is the same now, due to ever-changing EPA requirements.On Wed, Jul 17, 2024 at 7:46 PM 'dave mason' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-cl...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hi Jim,--Another version of the graphite is a product called Calyx.The good: if you don’t want to remove exhaust manifolds, this can be applied with a toothbrush and worked into the cast iron in situ. Just wire brush loose rust rust off first.The not so good: it does not weather seal the cast iron, such that it will start looking a little rusty and then you’ll have to touch it up.Bottom line, I’d use it on manifolds attached to the engine but if I had clean manifolds off the engine I’d use a more durable coating. I have a small can of high temp POR-15 but have not used it yet…V/rD&KSent from my iPhoneOn Jul 17, 2024, at 22:11, Jim Birr <jeb...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Added some links if anybody is curious about the graphite lube finish:--On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 8:05:16 PM UTC-5 Jim Birr wrote:Has anyone used Slip Graphite Lubricant as a finishing product on cast iron exhaust manifolds?I've stumbled across several sites that have used a graphite lubricant as a finish (Slip Graphite or equivalent). Very high temperature and durable according to them, easy to touch up and authentic cast iron look.Then of course others swear by POR-15 High temp or Eastwood or VHT.What has everybody here used?Jim
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