What kind of user installation error makes a pertronix fail later “on the road”? Maybe it’s a user issue if there is a “no start” on the initial install. If you want to blame “something else” then why is pertronix better than staying with points and checking them once in a while?
To paraphrase my favorite east coast EE, no one knows ignition like the automobile manufacturers, and they figured it out over a century ago; the aftermarket has nothing on them. Also, if you understand your points system, you can fix it on the side of the road. If your aftermarket ignition fails you walk On Jul 31, 2024, at 9:03 PM, 'John Lazenby' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Well, I figured I jump in here and make a few comments. First, I'm not an "electronics guy" other than I know not to put my finger in the wall socket.
For years my company, Royze Inc. sold the Pertronix line. I became friends with John G. a fellow VW guy who was the national sales manager at Pertronix and between the two of us we got the unit for the early Hemi Dual Point Distributors put into product. The original prototype is in my parts bin as I write this.
From time to time we would get units back from customers stating they were faulty. If they were in the warranty period we would replace the unit no questions asked. Those "faulty" units would be sent back to Pertronix for inspection and we would be issued credit. John ALWAYS sent me a report on any units that went back and virtually none of them were bad. I'm not saying it never happened but it was seldom.
On a personal not I've run these units in our 300B and 300C for over 25 years without issues. Now to be as objective as I can I did try one in our '55 NYer T&C and had issues of it firing. According to John the 6 volt units were marginal at best. So on that car I went back to dual points and no further issues. I sold the business and retired over six years ago and John G. also retired from Pertronix shortly thereafter.
John Lazenby
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 06:47:55 PM PDT, Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
An eight year old Pertronix Ignitor module would not be of the older variety. The trouble prone modules were those from 25 or more years ago, and most problems were "user installation error." And a Pertronix means no points, no capacitor. They tend to be all or nothing which equates to failure meaning no spark. I think fuel/carb issue unless timing is off.
Carl B.
------ Original Message ------
Date 7/31/2024 3:31:28 PM
Subject Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Use of Pertronix increases the odds greatly that the trouble lay with ignition and likely the Pertronix module itself. The older variety are known to eventually fail and backfiring is among the presentations.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lindsey Fuller" <Lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2024 3:47pm
To: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Dan Plotkin" <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Carl Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>, "'Bob Meritt" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jean-Yves Chouinard" <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jim Marino" <jpm0855@xxxxxxxxx>, "chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Thanks for all the input. I should have mentioned that I switched to Pertronics ignition during restoration 8 years ago. Not sure if that changes any of your ideas.
very good point Dan , i jumped to tail pipe backfire , more likely a carb backfire , accell pump check valve sticks on these , no squirt ? one side . Especially off idle
Same issues apply . Haven’t be careful myself , which kind of backfire
I had quite a dance last week with one of my cars , will be long story , Later on . I write long stories . This one is real .
but end point : NEVER hold wire in hand to check spark or run with a coil wire off distributor or pulled plug wire etc . Unloaded plug volts can exceed 60000 will break down the coil inside , especially old one . voltage is clamped to 20000 or under , by the outside plug gap .Make tester of old plug and ground wire
All this last week led to discovering a 10$ tester on amazon with adjustable screw gap , set it to 20 kv , to test spark . Great tool . Never knew about it . Fits on wire . Critical in fact to check spark without hurting the coil inside . It will hold the bolts down like a plug
Once you hurt your coil you get occasional poor running , or one day won’t start right , on and on and sends you down a very long garden path maybe for years .And intermittent as all get out . Reason : Part of spark is sometimes reduced by coil carbon track inside the coil . Sometimes …
I have done that we all have . It DOES damage coil .
We keep
learning
John
Begin forwarded message:
hi backfire is not usually a plug issue or wire at plug either . A failure there usually means obvious skip ,( it is then not firing, as opposed to firing ant wrong time) and although that skip could lead to fuel vapor in exhaust etc , i have never seen that . And it would skip . If skip , dirty plug a hard run might help , like uphill . but my money is on incorrect points setting too tight . you really can’t do it right with out an old fashioned dwell meter as they are critical and tend to change as you tighten the screw . See ebay old sears dwell meter Also the capacitor . If someone replaced yours with one with rubber conical nose they are junk . Hard to find but original mopar has a copper strap out of cap I may not be right on all this , from afar but what I would do … hope it helps j
On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:24 PM, Lindsey <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Have hardly driven my F this year due to wet and nasty weather and waiting to get my brakes fixed properly. Finally took it for an hour or so city cruise last Sunday. After a slow crawl through a show and shine, i stopped at a red light. Accelerated medium throttle and heard a backfire, probably mine. 5 minutes later hit another red light and motor was shaking at idle. Obviously a cylinder not happy. Got home ok. Not able to bend down at moment to pull front wheels and access covers to get at plugs. No signs of arching on coil or distributor cap contacts that i could see. Cap for #1 cylinder had a bit of loose black stuff at bottom which cleaned up with a q tip. Took it out again and seemed fine, motor smooth, good moderate acceleration, no highway. Came to a stop sign on a remote road. Didn’t come to a full stop, then began accelerating modestly and a small backfire. The car has always run a bit rich since restoration i believe. Any thoughts before I get it to my out of town mechanic?
Thanks.
Lindsey in fires fire free Winnipeg
Sent from my iPad
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