you are so right !
keep points but high dwell system without a second set of points or full electronic switch . Best of both worlds and a simple switch puts you in pure points mode if a hassle
i have 3-4 designs on paper , plus another to correctly interface points to hei OR orange box . It CANNOT be done with resistors despite chevy internet lore. But keep points and extend dwell is imho best way and bulletproof . Far more dwell than dual points at high RPM , like 20% higher rpm fir sure Solves capacitor and bounce issues too . Any interest out there ? Keep your lettercar distributor as is no conversions , no point wear to speak of
We have sold quite a few F directional release timers , good to know someone watches…! On Aug 2, 2024, at 2:46 PM, RICK AND DEBBIE CLAPHAM <rixpac@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I liked the 65 A 990 transistorized ignition with points.
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 2, 2024 8:20:28 AM
To: Tom Wilburn <tomwilburn1@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler 300 club <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Jim Marino <jpm0855@xxxxxxxxx>; Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
error , should be 0.27 uF slipping ! ( yow)
Driving the tune up back then was usually rubbing block wears down a bit changing gap generally closing the points up .
Soon misfires , as no longer the clean break/ big spark at .018 or so . A compromise , more than about .018 brings bounce , arcing at bounce , less dwell .Will break down at high rpm not enough dwell . Why dual points on high perf engines (
Petty did ok with dual points at Nascar / hemi ) Closer than correct by quite a bit will bring on an arc across the gap as they open , don’t open enough ,
weak erratic spark , missing etc
but seems that takes 15000 miles ? We are not driving these cars 15000 (?,,except Noel !) so annual check with dwell meter is reasonable .
Note with dwell meter , the old kind , you do not even open the distributor .
literally 45 seconds .
45 hours trying to diagnose erratic pertrinix bs ??? , then change it , still gives same problem . been there
On Aug 2, 2024, at 9:47 AM, Tom Wilburn <tomwilburn1@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
First I have heard of “lifetime” points.
Was it the condensor driving the standard “points and condenser” annual tuneup in the day?
Tom
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 2, 2024, at 8:13 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
To further add some fuel , why change points ever ? cause they don't look pretty ? Or it’s a nice day for a tune up ?
As long as dwell is right, by dwell meter, appearance does not matter electrically ; metal to metal is a perfect electrical connection and oxides etc will burn off .They form on your brand new ones in a few miles
just reset gap 4-5 x only with dwell meter , they will live as long as engine
And to James point if not square bend them till they are .
Changing them for nothing is half the problem we cause ourselves .
On capacitor , I now use .027 1200 V panasonic radio caps , Japanese’s quality control is bulletproof can be mounted outside the cap gain some room , use radio two or three terminal solder strip .
But if you find old mopar with copper strap grab them . 6 or 12 v same cap will work .
On Aug 2, 2024, at 12:00 AM, 'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From what I’ve heard, people are dissatisfied with current production of points and condensers. That’s why many folks search for good quality old stock of these
items. Ebay is a good source.
Ron
From: James Douglas
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2024 4:50 PM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Well,
Since SMP moved the production line from Long Island City to Mexico the quality of the points has been crap. I ordered a dozen sets for my Desoto’s a few years back and they had holes that were off and
the plating on the bottom was so bad the bottom of the plate would not sit flat. I sent them back waited six months and order a couple and they were the same.
So, although a lot of people still know how to set points, the quality of them is getting so poor it does not matter how good you are.
That is one reason people look for alternatives.
The other issue is the crap condensers.
James
And the funny thing is, a Pertronix is totally unnecessary for the successful operation of our cars. No idea why anyone feels they need to install one of these.
Laziness ? Ignorance, based on unwillingness to learn how to set points ? Some Internet Influencer with three million followers told them to do so ? SMH.
Ron
From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2024 3:48 PM
To: Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>; John Lazenby <french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx>; Lindsey Fuller <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; John
Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Bob Meritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Jean-Yves Chouinard <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>; Jim Marino <jpm0855@xxxxxxxxx>;
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Carl-
I have no idea how much experience you have across many cars with Pertronix. However I lurk on a variety of different old car forums in which the like minded share experience
as we do here. I don't condemn a product in wide use lightly.
The failures of Pertronix are
widely known in the old car hobby, especially among the Corvette community which is far larger than our letter car community, with many more cars and people. The evidence I have seen there over 12
years is far from anecdotal.
Is some of it failure to follow instructions? Yes. Do many use Pertronix without a problem. Must be. Have a great many been relegated to
the side of the road because of a properly installed but defective product? Absolutely.
I agree with you Carl that the problem could be elsewhere. However given what the greater hobby has experienced with Pertronix,
the first thing someone with Pertronix and an ignition related running problem should do is rule out the Pertronix first! Screw in a set of points and see what happens.
This does not have to be an argument. It's a discussion where everyone can learn from each other.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Carl Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, August 1, 2024 3:14pm
To: "Andy Mikonis" <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>, "John Lazenby" <french_fryguy@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Lindsey Fuller" <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "'Bob
Meritt" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jean-Yves Chouinard" <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jim Marino" <jpm0855@xxxxxxxxx>, "chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx"
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
I did not intend to reignite the Pertronix debate with my post. Lindsey asked if the Pertronix might factor into his problems. Of course it is possible, but my point was
that I basically disagreed with Danny that it "increases the odds greatly." I would start by looking at other issues first. That is hardly blaming something else. It is trying to help a fellow member get timely resolution to a problem. I also never said
it can't cause a backfire. It most definitely is possible. I just suspect that is an exception, very atypical (in a correct installation, on a Prestolite dual point, no clue on a Camaro)). We all have different opinions and that heps all of us when there
is a problem.
We don't know that failure rate of the Pertronix units in the field and to what degree the root cause is due to "user error." Anecdotal evidence is insufficient to draw proper
conclusions. I appreciated John Lazenby's post beause he has more direct experience with the product and the vendor than most (or all) of us. John could not have run a successful parts business for 40-50 years selling products that don't work.
To address Andy's question, the product has weak points and user installation (or operational) errrors can contribute greatly to its premature demise. In fact, I did an entire
video on the subject, specifally in reference to use in the Prestolite dual point distributors. See here: Pertronix
Ignitor (youtube.com) If you don't have 13 minutes to watch the video, I'll summarize:
1. Bad ground. Needs to be not greater than 0.2 ohms. (ground is also critical with Mopar ECU box). User installation error.
2. Low voltage, esp. running unit in series with ballast resistor, as Danny mentions, by connecting the red wire to coil pos. instead of a full 12V source. It will work
- but could shorten life and cause other problems. User installation error.
3. Wrong air gap. Usually doesn't work at all. User needs to check. User installtion error.
4. Magnet sleeve not fully seated. User installtion error.
5. Installing unit in a worn distributor. All sorts of issues can occur. User insatllation and operation error.
6. Operation with faulty alternator, generator, voltage regulator, or weak battery. Low or high voltage damages unit over time. Voltage spikes are possible. User operational
error.
7. Failure to readjust ignition timing after installation. User insatllation error.
Other issues not associated with user installation error:
1. Heat. Can damage unit over time.
2. Unit uses the breaker plate as a heat sink. May not really be adequate. Not any choice as unit must fit under the distributor cap.
I am not saying that the Pertronix is a better solution than factory breaker points. It is an alternative solution. The module is a solid state switching device (probably
a Darlington switch in EE terms, but not sure). It provides a consistent spark over time (when operating as designed). The spark is cleaner. But not stronger. - due to voltage drop on switch. John Grady 100% correct on that, as always.
------ Original Message ------
Date 7/31/2024 11:58:20 PM
Subject Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
What kind of user installation error makes a pertronix fail later “on the road”? Maybe it’s a user issue if there is a “no start” on the initial install. If you want to blame
“something else” then why is pertronix better than staying with points and checking them once in a while?
To paraphrase my favorite east coast EE, no one knows ignition like the automobile manufacturers, and they figured it out over a century ago; the aftermarket has nothing on
them. Also, if you understand your points system, you can fix it on the side of the road. If your aftermarket ignition fails you walk
Well, I figured I jump in here and make a few comments. First, I'm not an "electronics guy" other than I know not to put my finger in the wall socket.
For years my company, Royze Inc. sold the Pertronix line. I became friends with John G. a fellow VW guy who was the national sales manager at Pertronix and between the
two of us we got the unit for the early Hemi Dual Point Distributors put into product. The original prototype is in my parts bin as I write this.
From time to time we would get units back from customers stating they were faulty. If they were in the warranty period we would replace the unit no questions asked.
Those "faulty" units would be sent back to Pertronix for inspection and we would be issued credit. John ALWAYS sent me a report on any units that went back and virtually none of them were bad. I'm not saying it never happened but it was seldom.
On a personal not I've run these units in our 300B and 300C for over 25 years without issues. Now to be as objective as I can I did try one in our '55 NYer T&C and had
issues of it firing. According to John the 6 volt units were marginal at best. So on that car I went back to dual points and no further issues. I sold the business and retired over six years ago and John G. also retired from Pertronix shortly thereafter.
On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 06:47:55 PM PDT, Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
An eight year old Pertronix Ignitor module would not be of the older variety. The trouble prone modules were those from 25 or more years ago, and most
problems were "user installation error."
And a Pertronix means no points, no capacitor. They tend to be all or nothing which equates to failure meaning no spark.
I think fuel/carb issue unless timing is off.
------ Original Message ------
Date 7/31/2024 3:31:28 PM
Subject Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Use of Pertronix increases the odds greatly that the trouble lay with ignition and likely the Pertronix module itself. The older variety are known to eventually
fail and backfiring is among the presentations.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Lindsey Fuller" <Lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2024 3:47pm
To: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Dan Plotkin" <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Carl Bilter" <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>, "'Bob Meritt" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jean-Yves
Chouinard" <jymopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>, "Jim Marino" <jpm0855@xxxxxxxxx>, "chrysler 300 club" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300F Backfire thoughts?
Thanks for all the input. I should have mentioned that I switched to Pertronics ignition during restoration 8 years ago. Not sure if that changes any of
your ideas.
very good point Dan , i jumped to tail pipe backfire , more likely a carb backfire , accell pump check valve sticks on these , no squirt ? one side . Especially off idle
Same issues apply . Haven’t be careful myself , which kind of backfire
I had quite a dance last week with one of my cars , will be long story , Later on . I write long stories . This one is real .
but end point : NEVER hold wire in hand to check spark or run with a coil wire off distributor or pulled plug wire etc . Unloaded plug volts can exceed
60000 will break down the coil inside , especially old one . voltage is clamped to 20000 or under , by the outside plug gap .Make tester of old plug and ground wire
All this last week led to discovering a 10$ tester on amazon with adjustable screw gap , set it to 20 kv , to test spark . Great tool . Never knew about
it . Fits on wire . Critical in fact to check spark without hurting the coil inside . It will hold the bolts down like a plug
Once you hurt your coil you get occasional poor running , or one day won’t start right , on and on and sends you down a very long garden path maybe for
years .And intermittent as all get out . Reason : Part of spark is sometimes reduced by coil carbon track inside the coil . Sometimes …
I have done that we all have . It DOES damage coil .
John
Begin forwarded message:
hi backfire is not usually a plug issue or wire at plug either . A failure there usually means obvious skip ,( it is then not
firing, as opposed to firing ant wrong time) and although that skip could lead to fuel vapor in exhaust etc , i have never seen that . And it would skip . If skip , dirty plug a hard run might help , like uphill .
but my money is on incorrect points setting too tight . you really can’t do it right with out an old fashioned dwell meter as they are critical and tend to change as you tighten the screw . See ebay old sears dwell meter
Also the capacitor . If someone replaced yours with one with rubber conical nose they are junk . Hard to find but original mopar has a copper strap out of cap
I may not be right on all this , from afar but what I would do …
hope it helps
j
On Jul 28, 2024, at 10:24 PM, Lindsey <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Have hardly driven my F this year due to wet and nasty weather and waiting to get my brakes fixed properly. Finally took it for an hour or so city cruise
last Sunday. After a slow crawl through a show and shine, i stopped at a red light. Accelerated medium throttle and heard a backfire, probably mine. 5 minutes later hit another red light and motor was shaking at idle. Obviously a cylinder not happy. Got home
ok. Not able to bend down at moment to pull front wheels and access covers to get at plugs. No signs of arching on coil or distributor cap contacts that i could see. Cap for #1 cylinder had a bit of loose black stuff at bottom which cleaned up with a q tip.
Took it out again and seemed fine, motor smooth, good moderate acceleration, no highway. Came to a stop sign on a remote road. Didn’t come to a full stop, then began accelerating modestly and a small backfire. The car has always run a bit rich since restoration
i believe. Any thoughts before I get it to my out of town mechanic?
Thanks.
Lindsey in fires fire free Winnipeg
Sent from my iPad
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