RE: {Chrysler 300} fuel tank filler neck 1963-1964
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RE: {Chrysler 300} fuel tank filler neck 1963-1964



Well, This looks interesting. Did you wire it under the dash, or put it by the tank?

 

Perhaps placing it in the trunk and running the wires down to the tank?  I am going to run a #10 wire (thick SXL) to the trunk to a small power distribution box for anything I may need in the future, like a rear mount antenna. I will also run some smaller wires and a small relay box.

 

James

 

From: ALLAN POZDOL <apozdol@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2024 11:55
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>; John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} fuel tank filler neck 1963-1964

 

I installed one of these:

I drained the tank, put in two gallons and adjusted the bottom E value. Filled the tank, and adjusted to the full value.

None of the senders will work properly out of the box for our cars.

Here is what the PO did to try to get one to work! He was a Rube, but not a Goldberg!

Tanks makes fuel filler necks as well. Maybe someone sends them a original to repop?

 

Onward!

On 09/26/2024 12:41 PM CDT John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

 

two observations , the Renu process is much better than a new  tank , baked epoxy inside and out , unlike a new tank it cannot rust inside ever    again  . Immune to ethanol They sand  blast inside then  epoxy oven baked ; you can get it uncoated outside , — I won't go there 

The quality varies with each site , there is a guy in Wisconsin (I think)  very proud of his work has done hundreds including two for me . 400 $ about plus ship 

On gas tank senders  see other e mails , the ones from vans were the problem babies  . They tend to  ship same sender for all mopar . you have to be sure float hits its own stops at same instant float hits  tank E or F 

typical result with vsns is it reads  E with 8 gallons in tank if you do not address this . Even then ohms not quite right  either .

 taking tank in and out full of gas over this  gets old awful fast  

you may  have to extend and  shape arm to fix this exact same travel to stop issue. 

 

I use ford brass float and 12 ga solid copper wire , solder 

i am grateful to vans we have anythng at all , but heads up . Agree new retaining ring  is junk , yet another tank pull 

On Sep 26, 2024, at 1:20PM, 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks Nick!

 

James

 

From: Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 26, 2024 10:08
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} fuel tank filler neck 1963-1964

 

I remember when we first got the vapor recovery nozzles here in San Diego. I was driving my first car, which was a '64 300 Sport coupe. The ones with the big round rubber flange weren't a problem, but the accordion style ones would always get hooked into the bumper. I ripped a few of them over those years.

 

I don't have a filler pipe out of a car to measure unfortunately.

 

I recently bought a new tank for my '60 Imperial from VANS and it was very nice. It came with a new filler tube but I used the original as the new one was mishapened at the end where it went into the tank. Also put in a new sending unit from them but my gas gauge still isn't working because I think I have a voltage limiter problem. 

 

The worst thing about new sending units is the lock ring they supply with them are junk. I always try to use an original one.

 

Nick

 

On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 8:34AM 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Anyone happen to have a fuel tank filler neck out on the bench or shelf?  I would appreciate a photo of it with the length and OD of it.

 

The California Vapor Recovery rubber necks at the gas stations is such that the fuel hose end does not go as deep into the tank as it did in the “old days”. As such they will the tank higher up than they once did before they clock off. Then if you park at any kind way with the rear down, you get fuel out.

 

What I want to do is to investigate taking and old neck and extending it up toward the flip door. I measured it and I have a good two inches that it could come up.

 

Vans sells some tubes for the “B” body and the Imperial that I could buy and modify. I just need to know the length and OD without having to take mine apart first.

 

Also, has anyone purchased one of the new gas tanks? What did you think of the quality of their tanks and/or their senders?

 

Thanks, James

 

PS. You know they undercoated the cars with the tanks in place. That old undercoat soaks up fuel like a sponge. It stinks for a day when it dribbles out and is also a fire hazard during that period. That is why I want to replace the tank. There is no place around Northern California that will boil out a gas tank anymore that I have found.

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