on this , less is more , higher psi is for say race flow etc . 3 psi will provide 1000 hp or something . Diameter of fuel line , filter restriction etc get into it . — the leaking by carb fill shutoff valve can be real if near or at edge of rating ; does not make 6 psi wrong, not saying that at all . But if it happens , bypass leaking forget stable idle
Too low would be shown by going lean at WOT or 135 mph .
I got into this for other reasons —I made a psi meter on hose to watch it . Suspected carb was lean due to secondary bog ,,it was not this ,” 6 psi” mechanical pump actually put out 4 or so and it was steady over rpm and no problem In fact this whole thread is interesting , I have learned from this that pulse type pumps have check valves that will open to let fuel pass unlike vane pumps , so no impact at all on mechanical pump or fuel flow when off . That says psi they make does not matter if priming only use , as Bob J described . 1 psi would prime it, momentary switch , then it acts stock once running electric pump off Vane pump ( rotary) have to be left on, so why have a mechanical too ?
My thinking —i did that ,removed the mechanical ( how our modern FI are) with Carter rotary ( great pump) as there is a big fire risk to have pressure inside mechanical pump on rubber diaphragm from an electric feed in . yes, oil pressure lock etc needed , but does not stop puncture or tear inside mechanical pump , and fire just riding along; so that is just not a swift idea . I had been trending back to mechanical all stock over noise of all electric , just accept long crank but do not like that ; the reason bring noise of Carter all the time is aggravating . After reading all this , the thinking now is stay mechanical use low psi pump to prime , momentary switch so not left on , If going electric , on over road , take away mech pump connection .. for safety jg
On Oct 26, 2024, at 8:46 AM, Dyke Ridgley <ridgleyracing65@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Danny:
Carter AFB carburetors are designed to require 5-8 psi fuel pressure. A electric pump putting out 4-6 psi is correct for the AFB carburetors.
Dyke Ridgley
On Saturday, October 26, 2024 at 6:35:50 AM UTC-5 dplotkin wrote:
Just in front of the tank. I would ignore advice to use a 4-6 psi pump. That could overcome a needle and seat. Fact is 1.5 psi has been working flawlessly for many years for many in the hobby.
Danny Plotkin
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message -------- Date: 10/25/24 10:45 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
What is the ideal location for the facet pump?
Just wanted to add, The existing mechanical pump stays in place and pulls through the priming pump once started. Agree with Danny, I’ve had one on my G for at least 15 years that I got from John Lazenby, and a different style before it. They really are necessary if the car sits for more than a week due to gas evaporation. Install with a push button switch. Turn the key on, push button until pulsations slow, then crank over. Simple, effective, no cranking, cranking, cranking. As John G mentioned, some folks think the cranking helps pump oil before firing and beneficial. Personally, I don’t agree, unnecessary wear on the battery and starter. Besides, if you did want to crank it without priming, you’d still have that option, just don’t push the button. As far as opening the hood, unscrewing the air cleaner, pouring gas in the carb…what a pain, and a bit dangerous. You want a Facet cube pump. Its a little cube, pumps 1.5 psi and perfect for priming. John Lazenby installed one on my F when he owned it. The Facet will pump through the mechanical pump. I run it until she starts and then turn it off. Google a Facet 1.5 psi and it will pop right up. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- Date: 10/24/24 8:02 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump The electrical fuel pump on my 61G gave way and started leaking. This pump was installed prior to my purchasing the car. I only turn it on for about 20 sec. prior to starting the car and then turn it off. Question.....Is this something really necessary (I did replace the mechanical pump about a year ago)? If so, what would be a good replacement and what would the required GPM and PSI (there is no notation on the pump to go by.) See attached for what was installed by a previous owner. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/1671610322.5054844.1729814558311%40mail.yahoo.com. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/671b95ea.5d0a0220.53720.0aeaSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING%40gmr-mx.google.com. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-int...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/000601db2725%246cc51490%24464f3db0%24%40comcast.net.
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