John,
I always plumb in a return line, so the pumps always see cool fuel going through them. In the case of a carbureted car, I use a 3/32 hole in a return
fitting.
\
An engineer at Carter taught me to do this decades ago when using their rotary pumps along in a car.
James
From: John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2024 10:03
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; Richard <rhuss214192@xxxxxxxxxxx>; dan300f <dan300f@xxxxxxx>; Mark Knutsen <mknutsencpa@xxxxxxxxx>; Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>; mguarneri@xxxxxxx; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
those regulators are not made to bring 40 psi to 4 , bad idea , pump will burn out
put in “in tank “ low pressure pump , newly available , change pump then to match specific FI pressure and needs ?
I am giving some thought, in preparation for a future FI conversion, to getting a new tank and a sending unit and seeing if I can modify one for an
in-tank pump. Until or if I do FI, I can use a regulator for the carburetor.
James
Facet cube pump. There has been a lot of discussion on this and some disagreement as to correct psi. Go through the chain on the list server and read all the opinions.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/29/24 12:11 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
What is the best pump to use? Mine does not work well. There are many choices.
On my F, I tapped into the feed in the trunk to the rear window defogger instead of fishing a wire up to the dash area. Simply turn on the defogger at the dome for as long as
you need it.
Sent from my T-Mobile 5G Device
-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/29/24 3:22 AM (GMT-08:00)
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
I too have an electric fuel pump in my G. I didn’t want an extra button so wired mine into the starter circuit. I make sure the car in in D so the neutral safety switch stops
the starter but the fuel pump energizes. I keep the key turned until the pump noise changes. Release the key, press N and she starts right up.
Just wanted to add, The existing mechanical pump stays in place and pulls through the priming pump once started.
Agree with Danny, I’ve had one on my G for at least 15 years that I got from John Lazenby, and a different style before it. They really are necessary if the car sits for more
than a week due to gas evaporation. Install with a push button switch. Turn the key on, push button until pulsations slow, then crank over. Simple, effective, no cranking, cranking, cranking. As John G mentioned, some folks think the cranking helps pump
oil before firing and beneficial. Personally, I don’t agree, unnecessary wear on the battery and starter. Besides, if you did want to crank it without priming, you’d still have that option, just don’t push the button. As far as opening the hood, unscrewing
the air cleaner, pouring gas in the carb…what a pain, and a bit dangerous.
You want a Facet cube pump. Its a little cube, pumps 1.5 psi and perfect for priming. John Lazenby installed one on my F when he owned it.
The Facet will pump through the mechanical pump. I run it until she starts and then turn it off. Google a Facet 1.5 psi and it will pop right up.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/24/24 8:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
The electrical fuel pump on my 61G gave way and started leaking. This pump was installed prior to my purchasing the car.
I only turn it on for about 20 sec. prior to starting the car and then turn it off.
Question.....Is this something really necessary (I did replace the mechanical pump about a year ago)? If so, what would
be a good replacement and what would the required GPM and PSI (there is no notation on the pump to go by.)
See attached for what was installed by a previous owner.
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