Here's a selection of 4 Vin tags white 1958 1960 and 2 1964 turquoise and maroon cars
Cheers and happy new year
Mike in Australia
--Yep, my 300L is nowhere close to the holes- just random tacked as it moved along the assembly line i guess...Kevin
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> on behalf of Nick Taylor <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 5:35:25 PM
To: James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} More VIN Plate 300KThey seemed to be very inconsistent with where the welds ended up and how well they hold. Here's my 300K one.
--On Tue, Dec 31, 2024, 12:40 PM 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
--Hi All,
I cleaned up the Serial Number Plate (VIN) and the corresponding body side. It had rusted in there and the spot welds at the factory were not in the location as outlined in the factory assembly manual. They welded it on the edge of the holes, so it was not a good weld. The yellow dot on the photo is where the welds were supposed to be. The blue arrows show the spot welds.
Turn out after cleaning it up, one can see that at the factory they placed (no doubt) two round tape dots then painted the car. Then when done they removed the tape and then welded the plate on. The only problem is that moisture over time gets in there and it starts to rust on the bare metal. The actual spot weld is a tiny fraction of the bare metal area.
So, when my boot caught the edge of the plate it popped right off.
I used a little rust converter on the dots to seal the metal up. I then used some DAP Weldwood contact adhesive and put the plate back on. I still plan on getting some tap down screws just to make sure it stays put.
Best, James
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