Agree Frank , Elaboration beyond the facts , into opinion is not helpful . —
huge difference between commenting from on high and actually doing it yourself first
The why :
I tried to do this on a 57 dodge using later drums that are actually sold as “ replacements” .. due to someone over cutting the original drums .per PO . DON’T cut your drums . Not needed, —often cut over the grooves etc you see to just make it look pretty , they are scratched again in 1000 miles .Turn shoes to fit what you have ( another saga) or use what is in there . End up happy .
An exceptionally competent machinist with 40 years experience including cnc etc was involved with me . It was a disaster . Problem revolves around finding the true center of a taper in a practical sense on a 3 jaw chuck while keeping drum orthogonal to lathe axis . Approach was thought going to be easy !
just center new drum by indicator on lathe on old hub and pin it . check to .001 on a lathe , — then pin it with 2 1/4 roll pins ; easy right?
no way .
if hub is not perfectly square to centerline there is an angled “off center” aspect to shoe surface that comes in your face instantly (looking across the shoe surface) so where do you measure concentricity ? Is hub flange face square ? inside of drum? has to be all dead on center axially and at right angle to true axial center on latte ; remember you are 5-6” away (!) at rub surface —tilt errors are greatly magnified .
that got into accuracy of live center on lathe vs outer small end or actually only the “ edge” of the female taper end ..
Had lathe tuned up , perfect. = Chase tail . Wont bore you with lots more except 2 came out ok 2 junk .
Later discussions with professional who worked on these back in the day revealed the correct pro process involves first cutting the shallow factory swage at face of drum where stud emerges ( hole saw like special tool )then drilling big holes in the cut off studs, to allow an inward collapse at stud press out of hub ( an animal press out without that “destroys hub hole alignment” ) And then very special slightly oversize knurled studs that press fit back in hub holes and drum at same time ; the repair drums / studs were designed for that . They even had a “ reswager” and step on studs to do that So 5 bolts are the pilot for correct new drum not the taper
Not just any drum . One made for those studs . Hub taper to studs must be made perfectly at factory
Back to sad story , next we tried to machine slight amount off drum shoe face after the pins , ought to work , thinking was fix all of this in one shallow recut — involves holding drums via tooling like that made for a real brake drum lathe ,( we used an E bay Aamco arbor) but outer hole on our 57 mopar taper is so small the usual cones with arbor do not fit (!) and had to get a small VW one , ( made for a metric mandrel of course) but now the cones are so far apart due to length of taper between - now you have ? chase tail wobble issue . Holding by edges of taper hole( cones) seemed inaccurate to me
. Led to cutting off a mopar axle end to get a real taper to hold drum but axle OD is “as forged” right after ( inward of) taper , not a controlled OD to taper . = back to finding center of a taper , machining axle OD to that center while kept square to the centerline of machined part it . . but 4”-5” + away to get axle into chuck ,and drum opening now faces the chuck . then the 5-6” out radially . Cutting deep in from that side a joke
( hey I was persistent ) No cigar—- By now ready for some Jsck
Led to how the hell did they make this? we think it was riveted into
one piece before machining shoe face ? , stud holes , and taper ( hub) ? were made on one special machine but then you might be slightly off center in swaged / pressed on drum casting = balance issue . Look inside — many have factory balance weights And vary , some have none . Who knows?
I did not choose to do this — all
4 drums ( new “ pro brake job “ by PO ) had later Dodge drums sitting loose on studs off center like .060-..1 “ on hub , pedal vibrates is understatement moves up and down 1/4 “ .as holes larger than studs . Emphasize “brake experts ” did this . I tried to salvage the mess I had
A simple pilot in drum and axle or hub for concentricity like later mopar would make this easy, drum falls off the pilot.
I think they had 1920’s axle outer end machinery / process just kept using it
Walter loved tapers , RR guy — and left hand studs . imho , an irrational design at best
Bottom line find used ones . Don't cut them cuz “everyone cuts them”
jkg
On Jan 4, 2025, at 10:03 AM, Frank Hinmon <fhinmon@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Some advice would be better received without personal attacks. Just saying
On Jan 4, 2025, at 7:45 AM, 'Ron Waters' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
DO NOT DO THIS !
Just because some clown posts a YouTube video doesn’t mean that it’s good advice. The hub/drum assembly is designed as a one-piece unit. Defeating that will lead to endless grief, including chattering and poor braking. Dangerous.
Anyone that would advocate this IS a backyard hack.
Ron
From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx On Behalf Of henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2025 9:13 AM
To: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} drum removal
By coincidence (or conspiracy), a new video popped up in my YouTube showing an Australian Mopar mechanic modifying a 58 New Yorker’s rear drums so he won’t have to remove the taper to get the drum off. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bsYO8jXdo
I thought there was a problem in centring the drum if they didn’t press on the studs but this doesn’t seem to be an issue in the video. Comments are welcome but I have no stake in this. I have the plate remover designed by a Club member and have found it to be easy enough to use. I also give the taper a light wipe of Moly grease to stop corrosion.
Note that not long ago I had a chat with a woman with a beautiful Australian Charger that was restored by the guy in this video so he isn’t a backyard hack.
Cheers
Henry
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 1/3/25 5:53 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} drum removal
Hi all,
Rear drums are off. All went reasonably well, everything considered. The previous owner had applied neverseize which probably helped. Thanks to everyone who responded. I had watched Bob's video and looked over John's tech article.
Is it possible to source a replacement support plate with operating cams?
For some reason that I don't understand, my computer won't let me respond to the original thread?
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