while I agree , Dan , two items 1) the hole lets hot water bleed a bit by thermostat , better sensing otherwise can be stagnant or lag a bit , causes big overshoot to hot before opening then close then open , particularly bad , if air is under thermostat after sitting . You can see that in temp gauge if you look . real issue ? not sure , depends on water manifold right ? And may needlessly pressurize system at every start. hemi thermostat is on a log = long way from hot head water , also why that funky 90 degree bypass hose . Added by Chrysler ? looks that way .
2) B block water pumps can have bad mix match problems pre about 62 . You buy a 413 pump today you DO get a 440 pump . Some early 413 had metal plates in casting cavity behind pump , aiming water flow , various rib numbers and AC pumps . Big mess . The reach “ in “of impeller varied . Oddly AC pumps have fewer ribs if I remember right So you can get shallow pump in deep casting , water does not flow right, space is left behind impeller runs hot . You do not know this . Happened to me . Parts guy insists same pump ( yes it fits) does not work . Side ny side NOT same pump . Cure might be all 440 stuff , or just know about this . Rebuild old or at least compare if you have it. Chasing part numbers is a rabbit hole, but note how many … # —- why? 3) in my experience almost all true overheating is because the radiator is plain old and full of junk , followed by fan clutch issues . Or hate to admit it is $ 1000 to fix , = new radiator, try to find a cheap way out . Aluminum look awful just sayin .. john On Jan 28, 2025, at 10:31 AM, Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Here’s an opinion: Stant thermostats seem to work as always. I am a big fan of using the OEM type and rating. I am not a fan of second guessing Mother Mopar. Drilling a hole in a T stat is for drag racers or others who think they know better. The stock fan and radiator in an otherwise good condition engine will cool just fine. I am not a fan of looking for trouble you don’t yet have. A working water pump should be blessed and left alone. Ribbed radiator hoses usually indicate an owner unwilling or unable to find and install the correct hoses. Glad to hear you are on the move. Danny Plotkin From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of towsonhe
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2025 9:47 AM
To: Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Cooling System - 1956 300B Hello all, I'm looking for a couple of recommendations on tackling some items on the cooling system of by 56 300B: -Does anyone have any recommendations for a good brand of thermostat? Do most people run a 180 or 195 degree thermostat? Would you recommend a high flow or standard thermostat? Do any of you drill a small hole in the thermostat? -My water pump I believe is original to the car. My car has 86k miles on it. I am changing out my hoses to the solid molded radiator hoses as I have had some issues with the flexi hoses leaking. My thought was that while I am replacing the hoses, this would be an easy task to do. Would you all recommend proactively changing the pump, even though I'm not having any weird noises or cooling issues? My radiator had to be recored when I bought the car and has been completely gone through. I'd like to not have to do the same maintenance twice if I did the pump later, as I also need to change the drive belts too. Any advice is greatly appreciated! --
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