Ok,
So, I take the car for a 15 ride down the freeway then into a Home Depot to git a couple of things.
When I park the car, it is idling just fine.
When I go back to the car and start it, the thing is shaking good just like before I pulled the carb.
I rev the car up a few times then I take off. I get home expecting the shaking and it is not.
Occasionally, I get some steering non assist at idle. Over the past few weeks, a little more than usual.
When I look at the pump it is jumping around a lot. I am wondering if I am having a pump that is failing, and the pressure surges are causing a vibration that is transmitting through the car and in particular
the steering wheel. Once the RPM comes up the pressure comes up and is masking the problem in the pump.
An odd thought I know…but…perhaps there that is the culprit. Also, if it is intermittently “dragging” on the engine at idle speed it could also effect how it feels when pulling into the garage.
Odd….
James
From: Carl Bilter <cbilter@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2025 11:09 AM
To: ROBERT HAAG <scooter465@xxxxxxx>; John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: henry.schleimer@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; dplotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; James Douglas <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re[2]: {Chrysler 300} very odd engine issue on my 300K
Right on John, but James said he is using orange box electronic distributor = no points or capacitor.
Could this be a vacuum leak? Might explain why idle is "different."
I had similar problem on the J last year, electronic ignition. Took awhile to find the problem, turned out that the nut holding the PCV valve/vacuum hose loosened up and created a slight vacuum
leak
Tightened back up and problem solved.
Also check plug wires with ohm meter. Maybe worse when engine is hot.
------ Original Message ------
Date 2/23/2025 11:52:42 AM
Subject Re: {Chrysler 300} very odd engine issue on my 300K
Troll eBay for old
US made NOS.
absolutely right Danny . Add in junk capacitors from china with the black rubber cone on the wire end…. most caps you buy on 2025 are the same junk , all private branded ,if you see the
black rubber cone , run away .
Bosch are good .. ISO / DIN etc the one with mount clip on it ,green wire , sealed, made for porsche and vw mount it outside (it is larger, wont fit inside ) by a vacuum advance can screw
. wire onto terminal . You may have to slightly rebend clip . do not use a long screw that goes in too far . uF is NOT critical. .2 -.25 works.. for all 6 or 12
Standard motor parts made one like mopar did, with a copper strap , hermetic seal — people take those originals out ( wow my new cool tune up kit!) for no good reason put in the junk .
Check cap with analog ohmmeter
James , hope you use old fashioned
dwell meter , ( like old sears off ebay) dual points are unbelievably fussy . Trying to set with feeler gauges is a very sad joke , they move a bit as you tighten screw , ( how much?) if
not perfect they interfere with each other , poor , rpm sensitive spark results
my $ are on points not right, and when new , can change a bit too .
Note that to use dwell meter you just clip it to connection , do not even open distributor , tells you gaps are perfect
— and remember it is intermittent if capacitor , comes and goes hard starting etc . Takes a while to show up ..
Reason it is junk , is inside of the poorly sealed can , aluminum foil of cap winding is pressed on aluminum can by the rubber cone .. that is the only ground connection . Aluminum oxide
( insulator ) WILL come . Junk design .
I cut one open after suffering a lot . I had caught it not working ( open!) Found ground connection to can had oxidized ,white dust, rubber had taken a set too . Works for 6 months maybe
. mho
Given the freeway run, sounds like your advance weights or vacuum advance is sticking. Put a timing light on it if it happens again to test.
Henry
Here's why I asked. My 63 Galaxie with a 390 began acting up. Idle dropped and surged. High speed operation was fine. I hadn't been in the carb since I installed it 21 years ago. And with all the talk of alcohol-laced fuel varnish and so
forth I immediately concluded that I had a carb full of mung.
When I pulled apart the 21-year-old Holly it was brand new inside. I had a leaking accelerator pump and there were some loose screws but on balance the carburetor was fine.
Under the distributor cap was a different story. The contact set rubbing block was warned to nothing and the points were closed up. Fresh set of points new cap and rotor well set to 30° timing rechecked and the car runs like new once again.
Sometimes we can forget these are old cars and in the old days we tune them up at least once a year. I hadn't touched that Ford in 20 years.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/23/25 8:54 AM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} very odd engine issue on my 300K
Danny,
It did not have a cyclic rate to the problem I usually associate with ignition. Also, I am using an electric orange box dizzy…
When I put the carb back on the problem went mostly away. I did not touch anything else. So I think it is something in the carb.
I guess I will have to run it for a few days and see how she runs.
James
Most problems like this are ignition related, especially given the AFB a mighty trouble free carburetor. Why the immediate condemnation of the carb?
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 2/22/25 8:40 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} very odd engine issue on my 300K
After a short freeway run for 15 minutes, 70-75 MPH, then a mile or so on city streets we rolled into our place. In the driveway when I put it in
neutral (or park) the engine started shaking good. In drive not so much. When I tried to pull it into the garage the throttle felt VERY odd like the carburetor was not responding linearly.
After it cooled down, I pulled the AFB and tore it down on the bench. I could find nothing wrong. I cleaned with carb cleaner, blew out the items
one can blow out tightened all the screws on everything, some gave me a 1/8 to ¼ turn and put the entire thing back together. I then started it up and it now seems fine, although the car is idling differently, the feel of it. I took it out and ran it and came
back and it still seems fine save for the “feeling” that the idle is different.
Very Very odd. I have no idea what happened. Anyone every have this kind of behavior on a single AFB?
I rebuilt this unit last year and checked everything. New jets, new NOS step up rods, new needle and seats, new vacuum pull off, new gaskets and the
like.
PS. One reason I like the idea of throttle body EFI for a daily driver…less moving parts than an AFB.
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