| Coincidentally last week I brought an original driveshaft from my ‘53 Chrysler to Camerota Truck Parts in CT for balancing. The senior guy there suggested making up a new shaft with u-joints. I don’t have it back yet but he quoted about $600 which sounds very fair. An advantage with them is they have shops all over New England plus NY, NJ and PA.
Chuck Sent from my iPhone On Oct 14, 2025, at 18:42, Lindsey <lindsey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I put a modern replacement in my F over 10 years ago because i like to drive it and boot it. I am away from home so can’t look up the parts. My car isn’t all original anyway, so wasn’t a concern. Nice to get rid of the vibrations. If you plan to drive it as it was intended I would go modern. Sent from my iPad On Oct 14, 2025, at 1:22 PM, 'Randal Edison' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Thank you all so much for all the quick recommendations and insights! The institutional knowledge and ingenuity of this club is indispensable for keeping these cars on the road!👍😁
Sounds like doing the new driveline conversion is probably the best choice for me, as I value driving my cars over the time/$$$ to try and keep them factory correct🤔👍
Randy 202-253-1545 cell On Tue, Oct 14, 2025 at 11:19 AM, 'ALLAN POZDOL' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
You may recall I posted a pic of my worn pin on my original drive shaft. Thinking this over, I do not trust that my driveshaft was machined correctly from the git go, as as I hear that pin failures are quite rare when there is grease everywhere. Was just going to replace the seal and grease, and....shazam!
So I am going with a slip joint conversion myself as a more modern and cost effective (for me) alternative. However, I did find that Andy Bernbaum has a fantastic rebuild kit, and AMS Obsolete has a housing: 1739920 u-joint housing, $149.50.
Allan
On 10/14/2025 12:08 PM CDT rob bohuslav <sonoramic413@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
An alternative to the ball and trunion setup:
To add to John’s comments, just fyi, if you order a driveshaft from Dennys it comes with the new rear u-joint so you don’t have to go searching around for that.
Sent from my iPhone
agree with Don , plus I’ll add housing is a big issue , it gets “ divots” in it where the balls rode for 100 k miles , so how do set like .001” fit along ball travel ? impossible. If not perfect tight and centered ( not easy to do press fits etc) it then vibrates at 70 mph or so . Denny’s is way to go all new shaft balanced perfectly
The back joint is a joke too early on , you may have to buy a new larger pinion yoke for current dana U joint .when used on early 83/4 . Denny can help , That piece is $
The front piece adapts 4 bolt E brake drum to Dana joint , used in Winnebago , then Denny outs a slip spline in shaft itself like you see in big trucks
The original thing is a real DOG , vibration bs etc . Gave up 20 years ago .Go all through rebuilding it and it vibrates . It is 1930- 1940 flat six obsolete design . Period
mho
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