there are only a few refineries in the world making synthetic engine oil , Mobil 1 invented it , for airplane gas turbines , very severe duty All the hydrocarbon chains are about same length - a major Chem E breakthrough . It is not BS . so buy Mobil 1 . Natural oil chains vary all over the place . Not in the game at all in 2025 Adding purple dye and a fancy label and pitchman , race sponsor etc just made to draw you in . Baseless opinions form , if good its because it is Mobil1 in new bottle Show me the refinery wuth Valvoline sign . Not picking on them
Rotella or Mobil 1 are best you can do , huge R and D behind them
20 guys in garages making purple red or green dye and fancy labels are not “ Making oil” great or otherwise . They are reselling When in doubt follow the $ , how much and what is different .. in reality API is a GREAT point , means it is real not hype mho On Oct 21, 2025, at 10:22 AM, James Daniel <jd1968ci@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Danny and Hank, Brad Penn is apparently now Penn Grade. Do you use conventional, Synthetic blend, or full Synthetic? What is your opinion of Driven XP4 (Joe Gibbs Racing) conventional oil? Please let me know. Thank you, Jim Daniel Amen Danny. I use Brad Penn and ZR-1 when I’m outta Brad Penn. I’ve had the same “heated” discussion with Vette guys (I have a “C2”) - that you mention.
Most important tho’ is your advice on running them Vs start/stop. I try to drive everything every 4-6 weeks and I never ever drive them less than it takes to get the engine up to operating temperature and speed (50+) I have a circuit I do - and then it’s on to the next car.
Great advice Danny!
Hank Very practical, common sense advice that should serve any engine well. I understand from many pointy headed folks in the Corvette world that zinc, while absolutely critical at first start/camshaft break in is less so for used engines with broken-in camshaft and lifters. These fellas say use Rotella 15-40 in any vintage run-in Corvette engine and advise against the oils without the API Certification Mark. Most boutique oils don't have the API certification. For the Corvette guys using it is tantamount to drinking unpasteurized milk.
I use Brad Penn anyway, have for 20 years. Its consistent with what my engine builder told me. Use a quality oil, pick a viscosity, keep it clean and stick with it.
The most important thing for oil in occasionally used hobby cars is to keep good quality oil clean. Keep the choke properly adjusted. Don't allow it to run eye-wateringly pig rich.
Don't start the engine at all, unless you intend to drive the car 20 or more miles, enough to get oil and coolant temperatures close and boil the water and fuel from the oil, that is where sludge comes from.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message-----
From: "Mike Hall" <b5hellcatsrt@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2025 10:22am
To: "Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} New Valvoline Product
Change the oil and filter. Use 1 Qt marvel mystery in place of 1 new qt you are putting back in. Drive the vehicle a few hundred miles, and do another oil and filter change. Stuff is Amazing!!
On Monday, October 20, 2025 at 9:57:00 AM UTC-4 dave mason wrote:
Hi Kurt,
I’ve been using VR-1 for some time, but have switched. Now I use Driven brand hot rod oil, which is also high zinc, but is supposed to have better longevity. Sometimes you see VR-1 on sale at Napa. If you are trying to run oil for a short time then change it, VR-1 is cheaper on sale and should be just fine…
D&K
Sent from my iPhone
Thanks for the feedback and recommendations everyone!
Kurt
On Saturday, October 18, 2025 at 7:49:05 PM UTC-5 jkg wrote:
i had a 59 rambler given to me free , 100 k, in college , I was broke
oil filter was optional on 59 rambler ( cross country wagon) this one did not have one (!) Also experimental aluminum block , caused other issues , anti freeze / clogged radiator, pia
Guy had been putting used oil from friend’s gas station in it ,100 mikes a quart .
Drove it home decided oil change might help , removed plug nothing came out (!)
Turned out 1.5 “ solid sludge in oilpan was blocking the drain
Oil pressure ok . (!) anyway
put big screwdriver through sludge black goo came out . On my own decided flush w kerosene , not driven , just idle , Did that three times used coat hanger wire bent to L to kind of stir things up .
put in good oil , drove it at 80 , maybe 500 miles ran better and better . Changed again still black , But ended up 3 years with it maybe 50 k more miles , stopped burning oil too . (1 per thousand)
Drove sadly into junk yard running great , 150 k, body rusted out . The front seat turned into a bed . Awwright
Went on honeymoon in it !
I would not worry about clogging screen , and modern oil filter will grab any small stuff . Do it , change filter and oil 2-3 x .Maybe 500-1000 miles apart Drive it hard and fast , nothing to lose
Gunk is really a very fine particulate deposit , wont clog anything just moves to oil filter ?? remember , seeing gunk deposit in valve covers is not about what is inside engine , like bearings. Looks bad , might not be causing any problems at all Old machines get dirty ; oil pressure is the thing to watch
Ymmv
j
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