Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 300 - Rear Quarter Window
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 300 - Rear Quarter Window



usually this involves accuracy of fit to the rubber , it is dragging . Probably it it is  too tight  
Rather sadly i have had to leave a few if them a bit loose , = some wind noise . A trade . A very small amount of silicone grease may help , but that has cons .  
New rubber is 5 x worse at friction than old stock , some stock ones had “ flocking” on the  rubber ; they work great , but you cannot get that .. 57 59 are worse if that is any consolation. You charge that rubber piece , it brings lots if trouble  
I never found any documentarian of it but there are two motors both fit , one is more powerful  . , you can tell as it is a 1/2-1” longer . Sometimes  they get mixed up in restoration . I think  the long ones came in the back  More torque 
All this came  about when I made new gears of brass instead  of plastic in gear box ( Forward  Look Parts, still have a few ) The Nylon strips 
Think twice before pulling old rubber  if it is functional 

I also found along the way a motor from a later mopar , not sure what maybe  68 era like charger , also had a tough back window. It was all sealed up  in a black coating like undercoat , as water entry into case or by passing through top bearing with the ones that point  up  is a huge and common  problem , water fills brush up area “ cup” destroys it  . . Later one was larger too implying more power, but fit our gearbox with some  minor fooling around   
There is a plastic seal    or slinger on shaft, just pushed on it shrinks gets loose water  runs  under it . glue to shaft with weatherstrip cement .-  some valve stem seals fit too 
Now I always drill an .060 hole in the bottom of motor end cap on any upward facing one , centered under shaft , a drop of oil , no more,  helps  lobe bronze bush often dry and lets any water out. OK to do with motor together , any chips are under shaft not in bearing
Hope this helps 
Really Aggravating . 

There are powerful Dorman power window motors / gearboxes( one piece, low $) for much later cars but electrically  different , a permanent magnet . Have to flip  leads to reverse     ( needs relay ,)I worked  that out ok —- went to redrill  to mount  it , feeling like “AHA  solved       !! “ 
Could not believe it , they changed the pitch of gear teeth on mesh  
Pinion is pressed on , or one piece, in  plastic box, 
Someone may want to chase that… … 
John G 


On Mar 12, 2026, at 1:15 AM, 'Matt Allyn' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

300 Sport 2-Door
Drivers Rear Quarter Window….
Not gliding up & down as it should.
Needs help, via hand, up & down.

Pulled off panel.
Pulled off motor & gear.

Cleaned out gear housing.
Motor spins freely in both directions out of car.

Cleaned hard plastic rollers & tracks of old white lithium grease & dirt.
Well as much as one can without pulling the tracks out of the car.

Put all back together.
Not much change.

Questions….
- Do I need to pull the tracks and REALLY clean them out?
- If the motor spins freely out of car, do I need to test the motor any other way, for weakness?
- Do the hard plastic rollers actually rotate up & down?
(An image of the top roller is attached - should it spin with a finger or is it designed to just glide up & down the track?)
- Preferred grease (not white lithium) to use on window tracks?

Thanks!Quarter Window Roller 2.jpeg
Matt Allyn

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