Re: 383 Engine Build - Issues to Avoid Wanted

1. Oil System Issues:

Oil Gallery Plugs: Double-check that all oil gallery plugs are installed, especially the ones at the back of the block. Leaving even one out will result in catastrophic oil pressure loss.
Camshaft Thrust Plate and Bolts: Make sure the plate is installed correctly, and the bolts are secured with thread locker.
Rear Main Seal Orientation: Always point the lip of the seal inward (toward the oil). Installing it backward guarantees a leak.
Oil Pump Driveshaft: Ensure it’s properly engaged with both the pump and distributor. Misalignment will cause a no-oil-pressure scenario at startup.
Pickup Tube Installation: Use thread sealant on the pickup tube threads and double-check the depth and angle to avoid starvation.

2. Internal Engine Assembly:

Rod Cap Orientation: Rod caps must match their original rods and face the correct direction. Incorrect orientation leads to binding and potential failure.
Piston Ring Gap Placement: Stagger the gaps to reduce blow-by. Aligning them can result in compression loss and excessive oil consumption.
Piston Orientation: Some 383 pistons have an offset wrist pin or a marking (like “F” or an arrow) indicating the front. Installing backward can cause noise and wear.
Connecting Rod Bolt Clearance: Check that rod bolts clear the block’s pan rail, especially when using aftermarket rods or stroker kits.

3. Cylinder Head Assembly:

Head Gasket Orientation: Ensure the correct side is facing up and that coolant passages align properly. Reversed gaskets can cause overheating.
Pushrod Fitment: Verify that the pushrods are seated correctly in both the lifter and the rocker arm. Misalignment can cause bending or valvetrain noise.
Rocker Arm Alignment: Make sure the rocker arms are positioned correctly on the valve tip and pushrod cup. Misalignment can wear the rocker or valve stem prematurely.
Valve Stem Seals: Don’t forget to install them! They help control oil consumption and prevent smoking.

4. Timing and Camshaft Issues:

Camshaft Retainer Plate: Missing this plate (or installing it backward) will allow cam walk, leading to erratic timing and potential damage.
Timing Marks Alignment: Double and triple-check that the cam and crank marks are aligned correctly. A tooth off can cause poor performance or piston-to-valve contact.
Fuel Pump Eccentric Orientation: On older engines with mechanical fuel pumps, ensure the eccentric is installed correctly; otherwise, fuel pump failure will occur.

5. Fastener Pitfalls:

Main Cap Orientation: Some builders accidentally swap the main caps or face them backward, leading to alignment issues.
Torque Specs and Sequence: Be meticulous—incorrect torque can lead to blown gaskets or distorted components.
Thread Sealant on Head Bolts: Some head bolts go into water jackets, so sealant is essential to prevent coolant leaks.
Balancing the Harmonic Damper: If replacing the damper, ensure it’s compatible with your engine’s balance setup (internal vs. external).

6. Final Assembly Checks:

Distributor Gear Engagement: Rotate the engine by hand to ensure the distributor gear fully engages the cam gear. Misalignment can cause erratic timing.
Valve Lash Settings: Improper lash can lead to excessive noise or valve damage, particularly with solid lifters.
Cooling System Bleed: Air pockets can cause overheating. Burp the system thoroughly before the first run.
Vacuum Port Plugging: Unused vacuum ports on the carb or manifold must be plugged to prevent lean conditions and vacuum leaks.

On Wednesday, May 7, 2025 at 5:37:12 AM UTC-4 Jim Jablonski wrote:

Here's a few off the top of my head:

- Replace the distributor bushing
- Don't forget the oil slinger
- RTV on exhaust manifold / header bolts
- Don’t have 5 friends standing around drinking cold ones during startup

Best of luck!

Jim

On Monday, May 5, 2025 at 9:45:01 AM UTC-4 Donald Gallimore wrote:
I'll be assembling an engine for the first time in a long time and looking for any "got you" issues to avoid in the assembly process. Things like don't leave out the oil gallery plugs or make sure the rear main seal is pointed inward.

It's a 1968 383 with all the machine work done and the freeze plugs and cam bearing installed. Heads are ready to go also. Work done by a very reliable machine shop (but i will still check the work). It's just going to be used for cruise-ins and the like, not a race engine.

TYIA.

Akron Don