From: Mike and Linda Andrusiewicz <miclinmopar@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with part numbers
and prices
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Date: Saturday, December 19, 2009, 11:18 AM
I'm with Steve on this one. OEM is the best way to
go. I've done at least 5 brake swaps from front drums
to disks on Mopars in the past few years. Mostly A bodies,
and 1 B body. I like the slider types with 10.87"
rotors. I usually just buy parts (master cylinder, hoses,
calipers for a 73 Dart). All were manual drum/disk.
On early A bodies, you just need to bring over the UCAs
with the spindles/rotors/bearings/calipers. The early
A drum UCA uses a small BJ, the later UCAs (73+) use the
large pattern BJ.
I've used the A body spindle AND I've used the F/J/M
spindles (diplomat or 5th Ave). I noticed
virtully NO difference in the ride or performance with
either spindle. I have also run the calipers in the
front and the calipers behind the spindles, again, no
difference. Just the brake line routing is
different.....same hose. Moving the
calipers to the back can buy you more room for an
aftermarket sway bar. I like to run Addco 1 1/8" bars.
cheeeeep and super solid. The early and later B bodies
use the heavier BJ, so no UCA swap is required.
Any swap can be done badly. I've got a 65 Coronet
rolling chassis. The previous owner swapped it over to
disks, while complete "rebuilding" the front
end. I just looked quickly, but someone did
a crap job on the swap. The rotors are cut too thin, and
have re-rusted. 1 stud is loose in 1 rotor. I
removed the dust caps, and the spindle nut didn't have a
retainer ORa cotter pin!.....that nut could just walk right
off, and there goes the wheel! The whole job is
suspect. Its amazing how much of a F-up some people's
work is.
My parts usage on a typical swap;
At the parts counter, I will tell them the vehicle is a
1973 Dodge Dart for: Rotors/bearings/hoses and master
cylinder. Note: You need to make sure you have the
proper drum/disk pushrod.
For the calipers, I have used: 73 Dart
(4067-4068) $37 plus $60 core at Rock
Auto! or 78 Aspen (4103-4104)
$22 plus $30 core at Rock Auto. CAREFUL HERE; the
difference between the two different part number is the
piston bore. the 73 Dart uses a 2.6" bore, the later
Aspen/diplomat/5th ave uses a 2.75"
bore. The 2.75" bore calipers are; more
plentiful, cheaper, and give more stopping
power. The proportioning valves are
available new as repops for ~ $90. worth buying new
here or OR use a 73 Dart . The prop. body style
changed from a brass one, to a cast iron one in 1975 on the
darts. The later F/J/Ms used the cast iron valves
too. It really depends on the look you want.
Once I got a set of R/L calipers for a 73 Dart. I had
everything put together, and the car pulled to the right
when braking. I rechecked EVERYTHING....still
pulled. I eventually found I was sent one 2.6" bore
and one 2.75" bore caliper!!!!
For more info on prop valves, go to the MP brakes website
and read up. Its actually a combination valve.
Mike
----- Original Message ----- From: <chymar01@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:01 PM
Subject: Re: disc brakes - caution, another long read with
part numbers and prices
>
>
> Steve,
>
> I hear ya on this part! Here's a link to my 64 Polara
convertible right after I did the swap on it in August.
> http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/21824735
> The pics there show exactly what happens when you use
the cheapo Advance Auto brake holddown hardware. I replaced
it all with TWO sets of NAPA parts. No more climbing
calipers...
>
> Mark
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Charette"
<stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 6:48:35 PM GMT -05:00
US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: RE: disc brakes - caution, another long read
with part numbers and prices
>
>
> "One note from personal experience - get good quality
(read that Made in USA)
> caliper hold-down hardware. Only a couple bucks more
than imported stuff
> that I have had problems with in the past - consider
the prospect of the
> caliper jumping up out of the bracket over bumps. Not
cool. "
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to
only one person -- directly to that person.
I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well
as other personal messages only to the intended recipient,
not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and
fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
>
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
>
>
----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
person -- directly to that person. I.e., send
parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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