RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover

[Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>]

Butch,

I've started using this on my stainless trim.  So far it works very well.

Dave

--- On Fri, 4/2/10, Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Butch Edison <waedison@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim anodize remover
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, April 2, 2010, 12:10 AM
> 
> I have not tried this product, but do have it in my shop
> and will be using
> it later in the year on some anodized aluminum trim from my
> 64 Sport Fury.
> This product was recommended to me by a professional
> restorer. If anyone
> tries it before I do, please post the results. Thanks/
> Butch/ Ferndale, WA
> http://www.bluelightningproducts.com/
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx]
> 
> Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 9:10 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim
> 
> 
> Copy that, its staying on and the minor dents will give it
> "personality"
> hahahahha. When I get it back I will give a good once over
> to see if I could
> just clean it and make it look nice on the car, but with
> Drano and Oven
> cleaner maybe I should go to the shop and do it before
> paint!  
> 
> 
> 
> All great advice!!!  I think I read someone around
> here had pictures of
> doing just that?  If they do I'd love to see them
> 
> 
> 
> Derek
> 
> 65 Sport Fury
> 
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Steven Charette <stevec@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:00:19 
> 
> To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Derek,
> 
>     High level summary: very, very carefully.
> 
> 
> 
>     A lot of long side trim has screws at one or
> both ends - check
> 
> carefully before prying.  Many of the clips
> (especially on the C-Barges) are
> 
> no longer available, so see if you can find somebody who
> has had the
> 
> moldings off a '65 Sport Fury as they could provide
> critical information.  I
> 
> had the moldings off mine, but it was in 1979 (hey, that
> rhymes!).
> 
> 
> 
>     Most tool companies have "molding removal
> tools" and Harbor Freight
> 
> has a nifty set of plastic tools you can pick up for
> $5-7.  Cut and shape
> 
> them as needed - they're way cheaper than new
> moldings.  Use cardboard or a
> 
> paint stick covered with duct tape as a prying-support to
> prevent kinking
> 
> body panels and chipping paint.  You will probably
> find yourself improvising
> 
> - I think someone here on the 62-65 list gave me the tip
> about duct taping
> 
> an old bottle opener (Don, was that you?) and carefully
> working the drip
> 
> rails off.  I got mine about half way off and
> chickened out, choosing to
> 
> just work around them.  I may try again before
> painting...
> 
> 
> 
>     Anyway, get good info, work deliberately, and
> take your time.
> 
> 
> 
> SC
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Derek Fried [mailto:mopar383fury@xxxxxxx]
> 
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 7:37 PM
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Subject: Re: Aluminum Trim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That all sounds great, and not too difficult. 
> However, how do I get my
> 
> moldings off?  I'm not talking about the ones held in
> by screws, but the
> 
> ones over the windows, etc.  Is there a trick to
> that?  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Derek
> 
> 65 Sport Fury
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Jeff Adams <ledman_70@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Sent: Wed, Mar 31, 2010 11:22 am
> 
> Subject: RE: Aluminum Trim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, just did this a month ago Steve...stripped those long
> rocker mouldings
> 
> on the Fury. Mix the Drano with water in a spray bottle,
> but be careful, the
> 
> fumes are HOT and TOXIC! The trick is to heat up the part
> you're stripping.
> 
> My parts were stainless, but I think the principle is the
> same. Heat the
> 
> part and spray it with a good coat. 
> 
> Sometimes it takes more than one application. I scrubbed
> mine with extra
> 
> fine steel wool and water, with gloves, rinsed it with
> water then polished
> 
> it. You may have to heat the part more than once. My trim
> is about 5 feet
> 
> long, so I did it in sections, heating it in front of my
> kerosene
> 
> salamander. Make sure your spray bottle can handle the
> Drano... 
> 
> mine got a little soft, but worked ok. 
> 
> Steve Charette wrote:
> 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> > Seeing Don's mention of powder coating his grille
> jogged my memory - 
> 
> > right before the snow last year I attempted to strip
> my headlight 
> 
> > bezels with oven cleaner.  The results were not
> good.
> 
> >  
> 
> > Drano is granulated sodium hydroxide (lye) - has
> anyone tried Drano to 
> 
> > strip the brightcoat finish from aluminum trim?
> 
> >  
> 
> > Thanks,
> 
> > SC
> 
> >  
> 
> > Steven Charette
> 
> > Promerican Corporation
> 
> > www.promerican.com <http://www.promerican.com/> 888-476-1210
> 
> >  
> 
> > 
> 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff Adams
> 
> 64 Polara
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> 
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> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> 
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> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> 
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> 
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to
> 
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy,
> 
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar
> 
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> 
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> 
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations
> as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to
> the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect
> your privacy,
> reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content
> signal to Mopar
> topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send
> parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other
> personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
> 
> 
> 
> 
>