Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question before that!)

[Dave64 <lt7dave@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks Rob.

Dave
'64 Belvedere 2DHT
318 Poly, Push Button Auto
Originally Florida A/C Car


--- On Tue, 6/14/11, rll <rlipinski3@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: rll <rlipinski3@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light Switch - and Electrical question before that!)
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Tuesday, June 14, 2011, 8:47 PM
> The front brakes do most of the
> stopping.....
> 
> When a raced my 65 fury One police surplus car, i had a
> hydraulic valve 
> to shut off the back brakes
> while at the track...
> 
> I did not have enough brakes to make the first turn off
> after the finish 
> line so i just let it roll to the end.
> 
> Mel Larson's Drag Strip in Phoenix Az...late 60's before I
> was asked to 
> go on my army vacation.
> 
> On master cylinders, found it both ways. A dual cylinder
> rebuild kit was 
> $25.00, I could get a rebuilt
> master cylinder for $14.95.
> 
> My old truck...single cylinder master was $79.00 dollars,
> the rebuild 
> kit was $5.95. So I bought the kit,
> a hone to clean up the bore, and was still under $20 into
> the project.
> 
> Our 65 satellite project car got the front disks and dual
> cylinder and 
> lines from a 73 dart.
> 
> rob/ferts/phx
> 
> On 6/12/11 8:05 PM, Dave64 wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies.  I know the fronts do
> most of the braking, but I haven't had a bit of trouble with
> the larger rear drums.  No real difference from when I
> had the same size all the way around.  The reason I
> have 11" on the back now is I swapped in a later year
> rearend last spring.  I may eventually put discs on the
> front.
> >
> > Ollie - thanks for your comments.  That was
> another one of my thoughts - to go to a dual.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dave
> > '64 Belvedere 2DHT
> > 318 Poly, Push Button Auto
> > Originally Florida A/C Car
> >
> >
> > --- On Sun, 6/12/11, Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
> wrote:
> >
> >> From: Ollie<satellite1965@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>
> >> If it is a single bowl I would
> >> surely  replace it with a dual. Just for
> piece of mind
> >> if any other reason. Get a good one at O'Rielys
> and it is
> >> life time warranty.
> >> Ollie
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> Subject: Re: Master Cylinder (was Brake Light
> Switch - and
> >> Electrical question before that!)
> >>
> >> Another option would be to get it sleeved in brass
> (or
> >> maybe it's
> >> bronze) or stainless and then put in an original
> size
> >> rebuild kit.
> >>
> >> On 6/12/2011 6:37 PM, Mike&  Deb wrote:
> >>> Hi Dave,
> >>> I would rebuild the original if the bore is
> not too
> >> pitted. You can hone out some pitting and a slight
> amount
> >> will not adversely affect braking action, but deep
> pits will
> >> require a different master cylinder. I have bought
> rebuilts
> >> that wouldn't work-so if you buy a reman- buy good
> quality.
> >> You shouldn't have mismatched drum sizes on your
> car. The
> >> front brakes do the majority of the work so they
> typically
> >> have a larger friction area than the rear. Are the
> rears
> >> locking up before the fronts?
> >>> Mike LeFevre
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> 
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