Re: Head milling.

[Gary Futrell <gary-futrell@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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Don,

Thanks for the detailed information.

  Gary


--- Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get most castings (906, 452, 346 etc) just to
> factoy specs (ca 80ccs) it is often necessary to
> remove between .060" and  .090" . In this case the
> intake manifold face of the head must also be
> machined. For every .010" removed from the head
> gasket surface  .0123" (most shops just use .012")
> must also be removed. Ideally the block center rail
> between the two head gasket surfaces should also be
> machined but unless one is blue printing the entire
> engine it is rarely done and will work just fine
> without it. 
> Things to do are the intake manifold at the very
> corners that sit on the top of the block and turkey
> pan intake gasket must be relieved to they don't
> hold the intake up of the sealing surface .
> Sometines happens in stock applicationa also. This
> is a 2 minute job with a die grinder . I cut the
> sharpe edge off all four cornerrs underneath about
> 3/4 to 1" back. All that is necesary is to make sure
> that sharpe corner is not holding the manifold up of
> the head surface. Try it and you will immediately
> see what i am talking about. 
> I seal the corners of the intake pan or tray with
> silicon and often use a old chisel with the nose
> rounded off to make sure the tray conforms to the
> shape a bit closer there. 
> Pushrods are often no problem but if they are a bit
> long we have no hesitaion about shimming the rocker
> shafts. We use 3/8" flat washers that conform nicely
> to the shape as you tighten them. You don't want the
> plunger bottoming out in the lifter , nor do you
> want it hitting the snap ring. This is easily
> checked before the intake manifold and tray go on.
> Of course with adjustable rockers this is
> irrelevant. Often  shimming is not necessary as the
> lifters have a lot of plunger travel anyway and
> after all we are just putting the clyinder heads
> just in factory design spec , not going below it. 
> There is a LOT of power to be had here so it is well
> worth doing. A competet machinist should have no
> trouble understanding this or doing it.
> How much can you remove without cutting the intake
> side of the head? General speaking a .030" cut will
> not require any further mods. 
> Now someone is already thinking, (I can feel it
> already) .060" to.090" off the heads is too much. NO
> it is not . We are putting the heads in factory
> specs as per the engines original design. We are NOT
> venturing into experimantal territory. 
> Chrysler makes especially thier BB block heads
> generoulsy thick. Unfortunately that also makes them
> big on combustion chamber volume and low on
> compression. Add to that that most of us use Felpro
> Blue head gaskets (The worlds best) and they are
> .020+ " thicker than the stock head gaskets which
> were .019" to .021"  depending on source we are
> giving away gobs of compression.  Compression is
> good for HP. 
> I make every effort even on street engines to bring
> the compression back in to stock territory 
> otherwise a 10 to 1 383 or 440 becomes really a 9.2
> to 9.5 383 or 440 . Just so you understand the
> significance of this  band Xs heads are closer to
> thier factory specs than ours as are also the small
> block Mopars. This is real important. 
> Sorry i wrote so much, must come from my years
> teaching engines at Provicial trade school. 
> My apologies. 
> Anyway that is the scoop.
> Don 
> 
> 

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