Re: Front disk brake conversion

[James Macione <jmcarz@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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There have been alot of articles in the Mopar magazines about this swap over
the years.  I did it in my 64 Savoy and have been very happy.  The article
that many people have used to guide the changeover is called "Swap and Stop"
from Muscle Mopar.  Another article called "Tale of Whoa "discussed the
issue of master cylinder changover.  Both articles have all part numbers is
you can get almost everything from auto parts stores and Mopar parts
counters.  The biggest problem are the 73-75 E-body or 73-74 A-body
spindles.  However they are out there and not real expensive if you are
patient. The upgraded Willwood changeover was documented in an article from
Popular Hot Rodding, November 2001 page83-88.  A place called Hershberger
Motors and AR Engineering have the stuff to do this. I have purchased all
the parts for this swap also and AR even supplied the spindles. The big
aftermarket brake houses are OK but they are not really Mopar specific so I
like this approach.  JimM
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom hecht" <baddd65@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: Front disk brake conversion


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i am going with doug on this one, i put stainless on mine
but after seeing what i got, i realized it could have been
done much cheaper.

the master cylinder leaked on the kit i got, was told to
go to napa and get a 76 aspen to replace it. at the time
it was only 30 bucks, a proportioning valve is all that
splits the front and rear. the pads are late 60's mustang,
so i will assume the calipers are that?

the calipers are dual piston, not sure what aspens were.

all of that aside, it looks like wilwood has a heavier (street)
version of their kit that is cheaper than stainless.

tom

Doug Ahern <D170A833@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

On 51 01/30/05, Dennis wrote:
> I am considering upgrading the front brakes on a 63 fury. It looks like I
> have 3 options:
>
> Stainless Steel kit
> Master Power Brakes kit
> Roll my own with information on the 1962 to 1965 site.
>
> I am leaning towards using on of the kits only because I don't need to try
> to assemble the parts myself.

you'll do as much assembly with any of these options., the "roll your
own", option, which may be better termed "OEM retrofit" option will
be the same number of disassembled parts as any kit. heres a few
observations:

"OEM retrofit" has its advantages: its cheap. all wear items
have Chrysler part#s which cross reference easily to any of your
favorite OEM replacement part manufacturers. calipers, pads, rotors
and the MC are all available over the counter at any parts store.
no custom brackets required, no special machining. On the flipside,
parts may be dirty when you get them and this option requires more
leg work on your part to locate the spindles.

kits (Stainless Steel, Master Power, rcc, etc) have only one significant
advantage that I can think of: it arrives at your location in a box
and its all clean. thats about it. On the down side: some of these
kits give you a GM master cylinder & booster (maybe you down care, but
if the rest of your engine compartment is all mopar, a GM MC will stand
out). some of these kits give you a GM rotor. Some have drilled the
rotor for a mopar 5x4.5" lug pattern, when the day comes to replace that
rotor, and your Pepboys replacement is GM 5x4.75", whadda do? some
kits have specially engineered and machined caliper adapters, I don't
know how much engineering was done to counter fatigue and stress cracks
on these pieces, if any. Chrysler engineers did plenty on the spindles
and caliper adapters used on "OEM retrofit" as evidenced by the fact
that they survive in great numbers. and the price is significant:
no matter how deep your pockets, instead of spending $400-$700 extra
on a disc brake solution, that money could be spent on a Max Wedge
intake, or exhaust, or those NOS taillights under the vendor tent
at Carlisle.

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- 
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



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