RE: ammeter bypass- No need so Why ?

Thank you Sherman…my “gauges” must have all been asleep…no warnings :^)

Gary P.

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Sherman D Taffel
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2021 6:43 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: ammeter bypass- No need so Why ?

When the ammeter shows a discharge it is an 'alert' that either the alternator or voltage regulator has failed.

Adding a voltmeter (simple) also shows battery voltage, charging voltage or voltage under load. Used together, great monitoring of electrical system health.

On my 7 Mopars (1956-1974), most often it's the Voltage regulator that fails. The '89, '96, '11 & 2015 Dodge/Chryslers have regulators ( diodes) but they are built into theur alternators so If not charging properly- either battery has totally died or alternator has failed.

Sherman

On Fri, Aug 20, 2021, 7:53 PM <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Yes you can safely run a Volt meter or AMP meter if you choose but I suggest reading all the MAD information…personally, I have NEVER seen a Volt or AMP meter alert me to a failing battery and do not consider that item in my gauge cluster.
I like to run the following gauges;
Oil pressure, Water temp, Trans Temp in my Mopars.
Gary P.

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of neal zimmerman
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2021 4:50 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: ammeter bypass

OK, so if i do this is there anyway to safely have an ammeter, or should i replace it with a voltmeter?

On Fri, Aug 20, 2021 at 4:02 PM <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:
I agree Jim. I read a great deal of electrical information from Mark at MAD Electrical and he is right on target with helpful remedies to the weak links in our system. I incorporated his recommendations along with battery relocation to the trunk & remote solenoid so the starter wire is only hot during cranking (every “touch” that starter terminal while working on the chassis components and have it arc?)…as well as relays, fusible links, SXL wiring (crimped/soldered/Polyolefin heat shrinked…) distribution terminals and the like. Also used redundant grounds with a ground terminal block in the engine bay…used 1 – 0 double-jacketed fine strand welding cable in rear & up front for a complete grounding “loop.” Mark is always willing to take calls to help all of “us” with improving our Mopar wiring.
Gary Pavlovich

From: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Jim Jablonski
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2021 3:12 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: ammeter bypass

The two concepts introduced by Mark at MAD are not myths:

- “Thermal Runaway” from resistance is real. Ask anyone in Michigan who drove a Mopar back in the day as a daily driver in the winter with heater, wipers, lights, etc. going. Burned out bulkhead terminals were a rite of passage
- The introduction of relays to avoid running voltage in real time throughout the chassis was a design improvement that eventually all manufacturers went to - Mopar was just remarkably late to this party despite their obvious innovations in many other areas

Now, can you keep your old cruiser 100 stock? Of course. But if you add power circuits and / or want to generally upgrade your system, eliminating the amp gauge and heavy power wire would be job 1.

Just my opinion, of course.

Jim

Sent from Jim’s iPhone
On Friday, August 20, 2021, 11:45 AM, neal zimmerman <neal.zimmerman@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Wondering how many of you have done this? I have read the MAD electrical article a few times, but then surfing around on the internet some people say it's all bunk, or it's not necessary on the early mopars.
I don't know what to make of it anymore.
Neal ZImmerman, Eugene oregon
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