Re: Subject: Oil pressure concern
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Re: Subject: Oil pressure concern
- From: rll <rlipinski3@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 09 Apr 2005 23:11:26 -0700
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Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 17:11:47 +0000
From: Kevin Merkley <krmerkley@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Oil pressure concern
Hi,
I have been running my 313 poly engine since it was overhauled last
spring and have a concern.
Last spring I changed the cam bearings, crank bearings, con rod
bearings, oil pump, timing gears and chain, and stock rings.
When the engine gets warm and as it approaches operating temperature the
oil pressure drops dramatically. At cold start the pressure is at 60
psi. At a hot idle (in neutral) the pressure is close to 10. The
manual states that at hot idle (500 rpm) the pressure should be a
minimum of 20 psi. The manual also states that at 1000 rpm the pressure
should be between 45-65 psi.
At 1000 rpm I get 30 psi.
The filter is new and the engine has about 2 hours running time on since
overhaul and approximately 10 miles.
What are the likely problems that could cause the low oil pressure?
btw, the engine sounds fine and does not knock or anything out of the
ordinary.
I am spooked and expect that after the car comes back from the paint
shop it will have the engine yanked and torn apart again. I'm not
pleased but do not know what things to look for.
Please help.
Thanks.
K.
Kevin R. Merkley
Thunder Bay, Ontario
64 Dodge 440 2dr HT (Cdn)
HI list and Kevin
We had a 340 that corroded the timing cover through to the
crankcase...showed up at the strip when
it slowed down by about a second in the quarter , the pancake batter for
oil was the second clue.
We towed it home and went through the engine..the stuff you get from
mixing oil and water with a
spinning crankshaft is unbelieveable, you can slide out of the carport
while standing still. Lacquer
thinner was about the only thing that would cut it.
Cut to the chase if its not too late.
The cylinders had no ridge, bearings looked pretty good, so we
reassembled the engine using standard
size parts.
That engine showed exactly the numbers you are talking about.
My dad told me 10 pounds per 1000 rpm anything else is unnecessary.
The car was fast (loose tolerances ??)...and had about 60,000 miles on
that engine when we sold it.
Never showed more than 10 pounds at idle..in phoenix during the summer.
A second car, a 68 superbee, a $175 (if you don't want it we will scrap
it) project that ended up bringing
both of our kids home from the hospital after they were born.
This car ended up getting a domino effect rebuild.
Timing gear had done the plastic destruction trick, timing cover and oil
pan off to fix that, the core
plugs in the head were leaking , off they come to fix and sent the heads
out for a valve job, the remaining
block sits there saying,"why not rebuild me???", so we pull the main
bearing and they look great, the con
rod bearings show some bronze and are replaced.
The pistons needed a ridge cut before we can get then out of the
block.....really should have bored...too cheap....flex-hone
the bores to give a new ring surface, swap pistons from left to right
bank(1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8), reassemble everything
with stardard size parts.
When it was hot it would show zero pressure on the factory gauge...after
market gauge..about 5 pounds..this time
we put the "black hemi spring" into the oil pump...idle showed about 15
pounds and about 60 max as the rpms came up.
We were never beaten by another 383 powered mopar at the strip.....when
we sold the car 50,000 miles later it was
starting to use about a quart every 1,000 miles, and still didn't show
great oil pressure...but was still fast.
Back to the original post....about time i guess......
I don't know if I would worry at all about these 313 oil pressure
numbers...if bother-some a new high volume pump might
be tried.
Before i'd pull the engine down I'd drive it hard for a few weeks and
see how it acts....The oil pressure numbers you quote
would not make me pull down the engine....but then as i said....i'm
cheap...but still usually fast....and haven't broken.....
rob in phoenix
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