Re: Toyota alternator swap
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Re: Toyota alternator swap



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The one wire doesn't put out at idle because it has to be excited. That's part of having a one wire.
Yes the ammeter, or more specifically the way its wired, is the weak link, which is why I'm replacing mine with a volt meter.
Wrong. Electronic distributors have two wires. Points has one.


Dave Casey

----- Original Message ----- From: "Sean Bolter" <bolterman@xxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 6:22 PM
Subject: Toyota alternator swap



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--------- Forwarded message ---------- From: bolterman@xxxxxxxx To: northwestweirdo@xxxxxxxxxxx Date: Fri, 15 Apr 2005 19:13:56 -0400 Subject: Re: alt swap

Neal, this is a trick set up.  You get an alternator for a 1985 Toyota
pickup, non-turbo engine.  You can go up to 1992, but the 1985 has a
V-belt pulley like our cars.  You can either cut the harness plug out of
a donor truck, or I found an electrical company that makes new patch
plugs for this alternator, with wires about five inches long, for $8.39.
I found another company online that makes complete mounting kits for this
swap:  one for big blocks, one for older small blocks, and one for newer
small blocks, for $45.00.  Finally, I found instructions on another
website on how to wire it into our old cars--it's easier than you might
think.

This came about because Mopar guys were buying Powermaster alternators,
which are made by a company called Denso.  Well, Denso also makes the
Toyota truck alternator, and somebody discovered that, side by side, they
look incredibly similar.

I want a reliable, rugged street car that I can hammer unmerciful over
big road trips.  So, here goes my thinking:  Typical performance
alternators are one-wire units, which are terrible at low speeds.  The
Toyota unit is a tiger at idle, far surpassing anything that came on our
cars.  Second, I don't want to go over 70 amps, as I have seen a few 70's
Dodge trucks with original alternators in this range that literally
melted the amp gauge. (The amp gauge is THE weak link in our electrical
system--that's why all modern cars use volt gauges.)  The Toyota's 60 amp
unit will not be trouble.  Third, it has an internal regulator, which
further cleans up my firewall.  Finally, it should be a lot easier to
find if it fails on the road.

I am no expert, thus my thinking on this may be off, but I think this is
a win-win idea.  I prefer all Mopar parts, but I am also a realist.

P.S.  Another advantage to using an HEI control module with a Mopar
electronic distributor:  You can route the little module under the dash.
That way, people will think you are still running points!  Unless they
notice the ballast resistor is missing!  To the naked eye, a Mopar
electronic distributor looks like a points unit, right?

Sean Bolter
1964 Fury

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.


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