Re: Toyota alternator swap

[Dave Casey <dcasey@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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To all, but specifically Sean,

   I'm not arguing with you, as I've done plenty of things on my car in a 
way more complicated than necessary (such as my upcoming fuel injection - 
talk about a cluttered engine compartment).
   However, I will point out that if you use a Pertronix, you get rid of 
the points, there is no external controller, you get rid of the ballast 
resistor by replacing your stock coil with one that doesn't need a lower 
voltage (I think pertronix even sells one that does this), and you still 
only have one wire to the coil, and then two wires between the coil and the 
distributor. That is probably the cleanest electronic ignition installation 
you'll ever have.
   Some will point to the reliability of the ignitor. Yes, I have seen one 
fail (on a '67 Mustang) but only because the key was left on for an extended 
period of time, which isn't good for any system. Pertronix replaced it. I've 
put over 15,000 miles on the Ignitor I in my Polara over the last five years 
(when I bought it, there was no Ignitor II and I haven't looked into what 
that gets you). My car is not a showpiece (ask Gary H.). I drive in the 
heat. I drive in the cold. I drive in the rain. I rely on it, and the only 
time my car let me down was due to my machinist.
   Note that if you do use the pertronix and eliminate the ballast 
resistor, you're likely fallback for an ignition problem will be to pop the 
points back in. If you do so without also putting the ballast resistor back, 
you'll burn the points and not get too far.
   Just some food for thought. Oh, by the way, my Polara still has the '65 
alternator and points regulator, but I have put bearings and brushes in the 
alternator, once. When I switch to EFI I'll be putting a 70-up style 
alternator and solid state regulator in it.

Dave Casey

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sean Bolter" <bolterman@xxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2005 9:49 PM
Subject: RE: Toyota alternator swap


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Yes, it costs more, but the regulator is included.  To me it is worth
the added money for the extra power, especially at idle.  I plan on
adding A/C and power seats, and will just feel better about it.
Remember, I am no mechanic. However,the one thing I hate is an
electrical problem.  I am about to rewire my car, and I see four
weaknesses that I'd like to update with modern equipment:

1.  Instrument panel voltage regulator
2.  Points-style ignition
3.  Low-powered alternator
4.  Old-style alternator voltage regulator

Number one is handled on our website's tech page.Number two can be
handled any number of ways, as can number three.  Number four can be
done by upgrading to a modern Mopar unit.

Now, I like to minimize/eliminate parts, if for no other reason than to
clean up my engine bay, which I am picky about, sadly!  By using an HEI
controller I can route it inside the car, and eliminate the Mopar
control box and ballast resistor.  It's probably not as good as Ma
Mopar's approach, but this is ideal for my simple street car.  The
Toyota alternator takes care of number three and four in one fell swoop,
also eliminating another item from my firewall.

Of course, there is no need for any of this, and there are pros and cons
to the various approaches.  I've given it a lot of thought and research,
and these methods are right for what I want to do with my car.  I'm just
passing along what I've discovered, in case any of our members is
pondering these things like me!

Thank you, and I welcome any and all corrections.

Sean Bolter
1964 Fury

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


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