RE: Spring Relocation

[Earl Helm <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

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 Jim,

Basically that is right. One thing to do before putting your box pattern on 
the frame to mark it is to take the front spring eye and insert it into your

box so you get an idea of how far from the back of the box you want it.
Measure that distance from the back of your box to the center of the eye 
hole, and mark that line on your pattern. When your marking your frame 
with the pattern, make sure the line is even with or behind (toward the 
front of the car) the center line of the hole in the stock frame hanger. 

I don't hold the hanger next to it, I actually bolt the hanger up to the  so

I absolutely know the hole is in the right place. Then with a bolt that I 
have cut off that is long enough to get thru the hanger, and short enough
to come in from the outside of the hanger, mark it. The same with the
threaded
stock, except this time your coming in from the middle of the car because
there is not room from the outside.

Wow ... good stuff, Earl.

So if I am reading this right, I leave the stock hangers in position, hold
the new hanger next to it (after I cut an opening in the frame rail), and
mark the bolt hole.  I pull the new hanger down and drill it, then place it
back up there and hold in in place with the threaded stock while I tack it
in place?

In the BigBlockPart page they just cut away one side of the frame rail ...
did that work for you?

Doesn't sound too awful, but I might just take you up on your offer to chat
on the phone ... 

Thanks!

Jim Jablonski
Royal Oak, Michigan
'64 Fury

Earl Helm wrote:
> 
> Guys I understand how you feel. The first one I did got me all twurped 
> out also.
> Here are a couple of hints. I know you might not understand this until 
> you have finished your project, but try to. Little known fact one, It 
> does not matter where the box goes in the frame, as long as it is the 
> same on both sides - side to side - and it is far enough back and up 
> for the spring to fit without binding.
> What
> "does
> matter" is where the hole is in the box. Believe it or not, this is 
> the easy part.
> If one box is a bit higher in the frame or a bit further back it is no 
> be deal as long as you drill the hole for the spring in the right 
> place. Since the stock hangers can be mounted up while your trial 
> fitting the box before welding, (the only thing that is important with 
> the trial fit is that it is square and parallel to the frame) you can 
> mark the hole location with the stock frame hangers and a 9/16 bolt 
> thru the hole in the stock hangers. Once you have them marked, drill 
> the hole, drill it square thru both sides, then get some 9/16 threaded 
> stock, cut it off about 14" long, put it thru the hole in the box, 
> then thru the stock hanger, and bingo, you box is in the right place 
> front to back. Then make sure the box is right side to side, and tack 
> weld it.
> Then finish
> welding you box into place and hang your springs. This is way easier 
> to do than to explain. If you have any questions, ping me off line, or 
> call me. I will be glad to help. Making a card board pattern the same 
> size as your box, and marking the frame before cutting makes it easy. 
> Cut it smaller than your pattern, and grind to fit. 800-688-3234
> 
> Earl
> 

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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

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bOyW3N.