RE: Formal intro

["Crabtree, William L LT NAVSTA MAYPORT, N1" <william.crabtree@xxxxxxxx>]

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Hi Marcus, I just finished the long journey for fenderwell headers, and it was very long and painful. You can search far and wide and all you will find is junk or headers that wont let your motor breath properly. The only place that I could find that had the perfect headers for mine was "Dougs" and I mean perfect, these are the best headers I've ever seen, on any car race or otherwise. Look them up, don't get "sticker shock" mine started out at $1100 and after a little haggling they were at my door in GA for $775. Trust me on this, these are the finest headers you will ever see.......

Bill,
65" Pro Street Belvedere II (going for 6 sec flat in the 1/8 this weekend in street trim!!!!!)

-----Original Message-----
From: Marcus "Hot Rod" Edell [mailto:marcusedell@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 23:50
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Formal intro


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Hi Everyone,
 Marcus out in Fremont,Ca.which used to be home to the coolest Drag Strip on
the West Coast and Where Mopar guys shattered records..Anyways I'm 33 years
old as of This saturday the 3rd,and i finally bought one of my dream cars.An
original 64 Fury 426 4 speed car.Its from the East Bay area here and is a 0
rust car,body is exceptionally straight.its a minor resto project.It came
with the correct 426 block,but it now runs a well built 400 Big
Block,factory 4 speed,Sure grip 4.56:1.The car was ran at the track here in
town back in the day.it still has its driveshaft safety loop.there are holes
in the floor where they had a roll bar.the factory color was a dark
turquoise with matching interior.someone had painted the dash at one
time,PANTHER PINK!! lol!!and dyed the panels black!Car runs excellent as
is.Also the inner fender wells have been cut for some headers,in which I'm
on the hunt for.As I write this I'm sitting two feet from the car where i
just finished gutting out the interior.I'm going to go with the max
wedge,hemi interior with A 100 van seats etc from Gary Ball.Same original
color inside and out.I raised the front end up and its staying like
that.8.20 M/T's in the rear,Maybe the stock steel  wheel in the back with
the torque thrusts it has on the front now.I'm going to be askin alot of
questions here..so bear with me...Thanks Marcus Edell ,Fremont,Ca

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Hudson" <mopar4me@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Headlights and bulbs


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If you check Dan Stern's site, I believe he offers bulbs for taillights,
brake lights and reverse lights that are somewhat brighter than the 1157s
and others available.

Don
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dan McCormack" <mcwheels@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 29, 2005 11:38 AM
Subject: RE: Headlights and bulbs


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Schuyler Wrobel wrote:
>
> I've been using 1157's in my tail/brake lights for a long time, matter
> of fact I think thats what was there when I
> got the car back in 88. the only problem I can see is the center of my
> tail light lens is starting to melt, when viewed from the inside. I got
> some spare lenses at the spring fling swap-meet a couple of years back
> and noticed that they were almost completely melted through? so I
> drilled those out and put blue dots in 'em. That's what's on my wagon
> now, so far so good.


> > The tail/stop/turn/backup/license plate/etc. are proving to be much
> > more of a challenge though.  My car (cah) has 1034's and 1073's for
> > the most part (paht) and some vendors are suggesting 1156 and 1157's
> > as replacements. Anyone know about this?  Anybody?  Buehler?

I too have been using 1157's for years in my old Mopars and never had a
problem. They are a brighter replacement for the 1034's. (Actually I
didn't know you could even get 1034's anymore) I have had a problem with
burning courtesy light and dome light lenses however by using the wrong
bulbs.

Dan, Hell hath no Fury, But I do!

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --  
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations 
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to 
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, 
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar 
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



bOyW3N.