Re: 383 no guts

[CobraLee1@xxxxxxx]

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Don-
 
What a great sypnosis of a 383!!  You should consider writing a book!
 
Thanks very much, it's very informing.
 
Ron
 
'63 Plymouth Fury Golden Commando 383 cu.in. 4 speed 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 09:03:48 -0400
Subject: 383 no guts


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A couple of problems with the 383. We have done several recently (past couple of 
years.) 
First problem is pistons. The two barrel pistons are low compression   and with 
factory tolerances compression ratrio would be in the 8 to 8.5 to 1 area. 
Relacement pistons from all companies are only 9 to 1s  which with factory 
machining tolerances will still only net  just under 9 to 1 comp ratios. (high 
8s) 
This is one big reason why  these engines often seem to have less when rebuilt 
then before even..
Comp ratio is a big factor in bottom end grunt. 
The only company i am aware of making over 9 to 1 to 1 pistons for these engines 
is federal (Sealed power TRW etc)  (L2315F)
These are forged replacements with weights and demensions as original but even 
these with out a good blueprint will only yield 9.84 to 1.
HOWEVER. With a careful choice of cams you can wake  a low compression engine 
up. You need a dual pattern cam that closes the intake valve early  but with a 
normal exhaust pattern. 
Some of the milder  comp cam extreme  energy hydraulics work well in this 
application. ie  268 ex e hyd.
Also a BIg factor is  your distributor curve. to get better bottom end the curve 
needs to be shorter and wquicker so you start of with more  advance at idle and 
low speed. 
to see  advance the idle advance manually to say 8 to 10 degrees. 
See if the motors bottom end improves (but dont run it up high , just see if it  
has a bit more guts) If it does then do a milder version of the igntion mod in 
my book in the Ignition chapter. This will give you more bottom end but total 
advance will be the same  when you have completed the mod. 
Too see if you have the first  problem  mentioned with not enough comnpression 
ratio take a compresssion test  and tell me the results. (One one cylinder would 
be enough to know. )
It should be 135 PSI or better for a good  street engine. For really hot about 
175 and for race 185 to 225 PSi
If it is around 90 to 110 then  a differerent cam (or  the good pistons)will be 
required. 
Also  a converter can help. 
We use the 175k MP one always with  383s as a minimum even though the book might 
scare one into believing that is an almost race converter it isnt. it does help 
these smaller big blocks quite a bit. 
Carb problems ? possible but I dont think so. borrow a good working carb from a 
friend for a hour and see would be my suggestion. Doesnt have to be a mopar . 
All gas engines require the same  mixture strength more or less.
Electronic ingition  by the way will not and one millionth of a hp to the mtor 
but will make it more reliable and it will stay in tune because tthere are no 
points to wear which causes the timing and dwell to constantly change from ideal 
settings. 
Hope some of this helps
Don  
Author of
Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
Old Reliable (Mopar)
http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 



bOyW3N.