Re: reground cams

[Dennis J <djohn14296@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hey Don, 

   I notice you didn't mention pre-oiling by removing the
distributor. I assume that would be a good way to help protect the
cam during start up???

Dennis

--- Don Dulmage <big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> 
> I use a lot of reground cams , I have no trouble with them. 
> You concerns about how they are made are what mostask so i will try
> to explain. All cams are maf de the same way , new or reground.
> They all start with a bigger core. the lobe can never be higher
> that the cam bearing circumference t so the start withthat and
> grind down. Cams wi ork on the subtraction princible. Whatever the
> difference between the highest point and the lowest point or base
> circle determines the lift (after figuring in rocker ratio for
> valve lift of course) Cam is a fairly mild performance grind.
> Should be fine. could probably stand more but it depends what you
> want. 
> curently all cam cores for every company are made by only two
> companies. The quality os not there unfortunatley and flat tappet
> cam failures are at an all time high. Some oiis dur e to oil and
> some lifters as well but the materials and hardenig dont seem to be
> up to snuff. My reasoning is a cam core that has ben run for say
> 100,000 miles with no problems it probably wear hardened much
> deeper that the current cores which seem to get little more than a
> candle warming and a cool dip.  I have lost one reground cam in 35
> plus years of enf gine work but only one. Modern cams especially
> from one particularly well know manufacturer sem to be ade of
> cheese and warranty is non existant. I prefer to use a reground
> core for my own projects . My 63 has one , the 400 cheapie has one,
> the senior dragster has one and some other very successful
> projectsas well. the finished project or cam is about the same as
> it would be if made from a new core in most but the extreme cases .
> If the n reason they arenot built concerns or confuses any i will
> explain further but so imply put , if you built it up almost any
> amout it wouldnt go in the engine. It is in my experience as good
> and probably better than an new off the shelf cam.  as far as
> materials , depth of hardening etc go. do not give it a second
> thought. A always breakin is critical . DO NOT allow it to idle  AT
> ALLfor atleasttwenty minutes. I keep mine  at around 2000 with
> regular whumpas for just over twenty minutes. This applys to both
> new cams and regrounds . makes no difference. 
> Now How to ruin a  new cam 101.(aka "what not to do")
> If you want to ruin a cam, any flat tappet cam  new or reground.
> remove the plugs and roll the engine over till you have oil
> pressure on the gauge before you fire it. That will usually take
> care of most cams and they willl be little more then an expensive
> broomstick by then. 
> Let the engine idle as soon as it is started . This is a crap
> shoot. 50% of the time it will wipe a lobe because there is no or
> little oil being splashed up from the crankshaft to drench the
> lobes in oil as the lifters and the cam lobs get to know each
> other. 
> Anything that delays starting  .like no fuel in the carb or
> improper timing setting (like 180 degrees out) or wiring not
> complete   delays the fire up. Most cams that fail are worn out ON
> THE STARTER>! Before the engine ever lights off. 


      Dennis
   





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