RE: cam positioning

[William Cole <wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Earl,
Thanks for the reply. As far as the lifter bores being at fault, I even
bought the burnishing tool that Hughes sells to make sure the bores are
the right size. (At least that's what Hughes says they use on every
motor build). I ran that tool up and down each bore several times to be
sure it's the right size.
I've wiped out their lifters, cam etc. along with the Mopar cam and
lifters. I did find out that Hughes lifters were about a .001 oversize
which may have been the problem there. I'll admit that when I put the
Mopar cam in I didn't change the valve springs over to Mopar. I also may
have screwed up by not breaking the Mopar cam in with the outer spring
first then putting the inner in afterwords. I thought they were close
enough to work and I guess I was just lazy. After the Mopar cam went
bad, I've installed Racer Brown cam, lifters, springs, (and this time I
broke it in using just the outer spring then installing the inner after
the cam ran for about 30 minutes). I also have their roller rockers with
Mopar pushrods. So far I haven't had any problems but I'm also afraid,
(read: gunshy), to run the motor hard after all the trouble I've had. 
The block came out of a motorhome that had about 50,000 miles on it with
no problems, so I assume the block should be okay. I'm seriously
thinking about finding another block and starting over. This motor is
the noisiest motor I've ever heard also. Even with a hydraulic lifter
cam
is sounds like it's got solids. I did have the piston to wall clearance
set up around .004 but I don't think that is the noise problem. Bottom
end is a Eagle crank, CAT rods and diamond racing pistons so I think the
bottom end is pretty much bullet proof. I'm just about at my wits end.
I've also check the oil flow with the lifters out and using a primer
tool to turn the pump. It flows very well as far as I can tell.

Bill C.

> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
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> as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
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> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
> directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and
> negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended
> recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will
> protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
-- 
  William Cole
  wedge64@xxxxxxxxxxx

-- 
http://www.fastmail.fm - And now for something completely different?


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

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