RE: conversions Dennis

[Bob Fortson <bobt1885@xxxxxxxxx>]

Say Butch...Not to beat a dead horse, but you do know
that there are also kits that use parts by number and
year (1976 Cordoba, etc,) that allow purchase of brand
new stuff from your local supplier (NAPA ?) and are
all Mopar based. I have several links to places
(Scarebird) that sell an adapter that uses all Mopar
rotors,disc pads, etc.. 
  I usedf them and am pleased with the ability to stop
my 63 Fury.

Bob Fortson
--- Willard Edison <waedison1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
>   Don, thank you for this. I started on this forum
> with the idea that I'd
> buy complete aftermarket kits for different resto
> projects on my car. The
> more I've read on the forum, the less certain I am
> that that is the 'best'
> way to go. And I do want my work on this car to be a
> reflection that I did
> the very best I could.
> 
> I think I can tell you though why some of us head in
> the direction of
> aftermarket kits. First, we don't know what oem
> parts are better than
> aftermarket. In 1964, my new Plymouth Sport Fury
> actually caught on fire
> under the dash on two occasions and the alternator
> went bad at least 3
> times. All under warranty thank goodness. The dealer
> never did figure out
> what was causing it, just kept changing wiring
> harnesses and parts until it
> quit. Same with the back up light switches, failed
> repeatedly until I just
> gave up. Water pump, timing gear, Rod journal
> bearings gone at 40,000 miles,
> heads the same, although I changed filter and oil
> probably every 2000 miles.
> (could have been that we towed our race car with the
> Sport Fury, then ran it
> in pure stock all the time).
> 
> The other thing is marketing. I'm not a guy who
> knows all things about all
> Mopars. Most of what I know has to do with the same
> kind of car I'm
> restoring, and not a whole lot about it. I would not
> even have successfully
> restored the heater in this car without the
> continued assistance of Kevin
> Merkley. So, when I talk to an aftermarket vendor
> who is selling what he
> says is a bolt-up conversion kit (manual to power
> brakes), I'm tempted,
> because I don't see anyone marketing conversion kits
> using nos or restored
> parts. What I see coming across on the forum is that
> I need to get to one or
> more salvage yards to get bits and pieces, most of
> which I'm not close to
> and if I was, I wouldn't know what I was looking at
> or if it is usable.
> 
> None of this is a criticism of your note, just an
> attempt to explain why
> these afermarket kits are tempting to someone like
> me. What I've been doing
> is cataloging all the notes I see coming across the
> forum in folders, so
> that when I get that part of my resto, I can refer
> to all the great
> knowledge presented and at least ask good questions.
> 
> Thanks, and I hope you all are having a great
> Christmas. /Butch/ Ferndale,
> WA
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Don Dulmage [mailto:big-d@xxxxxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 6:36 AM
> To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: conversions Dennis
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I am a hard headed fellow. Might be my
> heritage . When factory parts
> are available that work perfectly i lose it when I
> see brand "schmuck stoff"
> going where factory parts would go perfectly . Then
> i see my friends buy
> that stuff and it doesnt work right and i have
> helped a few out to get it at
> least working. When they told me what they paid for
> the stufff. I went
> ballistic . Probably that is because I have a real
> real strong distaste for
> the "If I pay more it must be better"  idea. Real
> real strong distaste would
> actually be an understatement by the way.  I learned
> the hard way that the
> right parts always work and expensive stuff is often
> just expensive and
> usually a big disappointment. My and Wager shops are
> filled with stuff we
> tried that didnt measure up. Like for instance three
> sets of Rockers, all
> different, all junk.  Often we have to lend others
> our stock based stuff so
> they can finish at the track or when we experiment
> find what we had before
> worked best. Sometimes it was cheaper too. more
> often than not.  Four door B
> bodies are a dime a dozen and almost any from the
> late sixties/early
> seventies came with discs. The replacement caliphers
> and pads are easly
> bought, sometimes for almost peanuts in rebult
> condition for caliphers (26
> bucks here). Mopar masters are used on many race
> cars and yet we find kits
> with Gm cylinders for ours. Yeah it ticks me off. 
> Still I am only one guy
> and others may love spending money  regardless of
> the results. Reminds me of
> G Wagers last race out this year. He was running the
> 426 from 400 engine
> built for between 3000 and 4000 . He meets a couple
> of guys running an indy
> headed mega buck strocker set up on one of our
> vintage (62to 65)automobiles.
> They had more money in carbs than we have in the
> engine and were changing
> them at almost everypass to get better times. Both
> their car and his ran the
> same times almost exactly.  Them with 511 cubes and
> multi $$$$$ and him with
> say for arguements sake $4000 and a 15 or 16 year
> old homebuilt Mirada
> racecar with  425.9 cu inches. We see this all the
> time and it bothers me
> when people spend their hardearned money on Mopars
> and dont get back what
> they should or expected. Now it doesnt bother me if
> Chevy or Blue oval guys
> spend a 1/2 a million. and get zip. That joys me but
> my own Mopar guys
> deserve better i think. Probably the more of this I
> see the more I lean the
> other way and it is possible maybe sometimes a bit
> too much. It is hard to
> be cute and perfect at the same time you know. Still
> I would defend anyones
> right to have what they want in their car. I just
> wish the folks who sold
> them that stuff would help them get it working.
> Often they call here as last
> resort. Even other shops engines costing double or
> triple ours that wont
> start, dont go, wouldnt pull the skin of a grape 
> and want to know if Don
> will help them out. (last one was a 340. my quote
> was $1850 plus taxes , he
> told me  he paid $7000+ at another shop (basically
> stock 340 mild cam and
> TRW pistons) and engine would not run at all. They
> did not care and would
> not help. (Santa didnt either BTW;>( ) It Depends .
> If they went elsewhere
> because my quote was too low they can pound salt i
> guess. If they were
> innocently led down the garden path that is a
> different deal. Last brake
> deal I saw was almost $1500 and worked like crap
> till we changed a couple of
> major components to Mopar ones.   Seems some of the
> folks selling these dont
> seem understand Pascals Law of Fluid Dynamics.Some
> kits are good too so i
> dont want to lump them all together. i just dont
> understand why one would
> buy aftermarket when stock is available and works
> perfect. It is just the
> way i think i guess. Have watched four racing
> buddies go of the end of the
> track with defective aftermarket disc brakes. In
> fact Wager has purchased
> one of the cars, an RED and is fixing it now. It as
> Airhearts  which we were
> led to believe were the best. this car has had two
> off track experiences
> both brake related and none related to hyrdaulics. I
> look at the fancy
> smancy hi dollar set up and think a set of stock
> caliphers and a good
> matching master would probably last 30,000 miles
> while these wonderful
> pieces of crap wont go 30. See where I am coming
> from?That is the best i can
> explain it. 
> Enuf already! Merry Christmas.
> Don
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://stores.ebay.ca/Don-Dulmage-Enterprises
> http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 
=== message truncated ===


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 

This email was sent to: arc.6265@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

. 



http://www/?p=