Schuyler
Thanks again. I know you suggested dropping the pan before, but
that was the next step that we didnt get time for. It's on the
cards for the next session tho!
We didnt get round to checking the parking cable down at the trans
end - just up behind the dash when refitting the unit. The
adjustment seemed a bit off, as I recall, so we'll have a look at
that again too.
As for the trans cable, we ended up knowing it wasnt adjusted right
but still confused as to how far out it was. I'd go so far as to
say I didn't know what gear the trans was in when I left my
brothers that day, after all the pushing of pushbuttons that more
often than not, didnt latch in. I'm hoping it will all become clear
once the pan is dropped. Just a shame there isnt anything in the
manual about the adjuster mechanism from inside the pan. Not that I
remember, anyway.
Thanks for the warning about the parking lock lever spring. Ours
has survived coming off then going back on, so we'll be more
careful next time
All the best
Robert
63 Polara 500
England
----- Original Message ----- From: "Schuyler"
<schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 8:52 AM
Subject: Re: Trans pushbutton units
Robert, my 64 factory service manual states-
"The following procedures describe the gearshift
control unit adjustments. If the transmission fails to
shift into NEUTRAL when the parking lock is applied,
inspect the parking lock lever travel in the instrument
panel slot and the parking lock cable adjustment
at the transmission before adjusting the control unit."
there is no adjustment for the gearshift cable except at
the transmission end. your adjustment might be a
quarter turn, of the adjusting wheel, off? but you'll
never know which way, or how much till you pull
the pan and look. the gearshift cable moves very little
for each position, so this adjustment needs to be as
dead on as possible. It was the only way I could do it
when I put the engine and trans back in my 62 wagon.
the control unit at the dash very rarely needs adjusting.
but if you are going to mess with it be careful with the
parking lock lever spring! I've had two break on me,
one on its own, the other while I was trying to remove
it.
hope this helps, just my humble opinion of what might
be the problem.
Schuyler
Schuyler 62 Dodge Dart 440 wagon w/ Poly 318
<http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-wrobel62.html>
FYI - I Do the Decal designs for the Poly head 318 and more! email
me with your needs -
<schuyler62@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
On Feb 4, 2007, at 7:35 PM, Paul Lennemann wrote:
This unit is an extra from a parts car. I wouln't want to try
to do it
too many times as I think the metal would fatigue. But you don't
have
to move it too far to free up the cable.
Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html
Robert Lane wrote:
Hey Paul, thanks for braving the cold for us! No such worries
over here;
global warming's keeping the freezing temps at bay for us!
So I guess you managed to pry open the crimped connection at
some stage.
Do
you think it would close back up ok if you need to use the unit
at some
stage in the future? Like you mentioned earlier, I'm a bit
sceptical as
to
how 'workable' the brackets is....
Robert
63 Polara 500
England
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Lennemann" <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:51 PM
Subject: RE: Trans pushbutton units
I took a look at your pictures and then at my push button unit
and there
really isn't any more to see than with the pictues you've
posted. I
have both of my cables removed, the park cable by opening up
the clamp,
the shift cable by removing the bracket the cable is attached to.
Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html
Robert Lane wrote:
Hi Paul, thanks for the reply.
Our unit has also needed more pressure to depress the buttons
than I
thought
it should. I've always dreaded the thought of using 1st, 2nd,
& drive on
the
1/4 - wondering how well it would cope when it's really needed!
Apart from the pressure required to change gear, it didn't
really play
up
until we got the engine & box back in the car, after the
rebuild (last
Sept). That's why I thought it might be more to do with
adjustment down
at
the trans end.
We haven't managed/attempted to remove the cables yet. When
we saw the
brackets had been bent over to retain the cables, we thought
it was a
previous-owner-bodge. One cable has the 'P' clip (like a hood
pin, or
hairpin) but the other has no clip. The spindle that it sits
on has had
its
end flattened to stop the cable coming off. I'm sure it could
be filed
tho
to remove the cable end. Any idea what should be holding the
cable on?
Another P clip?
We should be able to do something with the brackets too, so
will attend
to
that next time.
These are a couple of pics taken when the unit was hanging
from the
dash.
You can just about see the cable ends & the brackets bent over.
http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rob426uk/album?.dir=/
b785scd&.src=ph&.tok=phx4.OGBSPWSf43B
Paul, when you had your unit removed, can you remember if,
when you
pressed
the pushbutton levers, did they stay latched in when pressed?
I don't
remember any of our levers staying in; they all just sprang
back. Just
trying to get an idea what to look for to identify whether
there is
anything
wrong with our unit, or whether it's more cable/trans.
Best Regards
Robert
63 Polara 500
England
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Lennemann" <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:40 PM
Subject: RE: Trans pushbutton units
Robert, How did the unit work before the rebuild? What
happens if you
disconnect the cable by removing the small retaining clip,
"hairpin"
and
operate the unit free of the cable? When I bought mine it
had similar
problems, when you pushed drive the previously depressed button
wouldn't
always pop out. I used some penetrating oil and compressed
air to
remove accumulated lint, dust, etc. and get it lubed up
again. This
cured the problem. Mine still takes more pressure than I
think it
should to get the buttons depressed but at least beyond that
it is
working correctly.
Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
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total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
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-- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions
and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of
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negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the
intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This
practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail
and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
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