Re: Stainless brakeline recommendations

[Doug Ahern <D170A833@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On 40 06/18/07, Menko wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I've converted my 62 Lancer over to disc brakes, and wanted to replace
> all of the lines with stainless.  The problem is, there isn't exactly
> a "best fit" kit out there for my application.  Thus, I wanted to get
> some feedback on companies that you have worked with and liked.  There
> is a list of places, like Inline, the ebay stuff, etc.  Any practical
> experience?
> 
> My problem is, the 62 is *similar* to 63-66 Darts, but the kits don't
> distinguish between those and later Darts, and I have discs not a
> single MC now.  Ideally I'd like a longer rear line that comes forward
> and get the junction up off the framerail, but I don't want to mess
> with double flaring my own lines since I don't have the tools to do it
> well.
> 

first advice:  use OEM steel instead of stainless.  same does with 
ATF lines.  the reasons are two fold:  1) stainless is harder to seal
than OEM steel,  and since you are making to seal it against brass
in nearly every case,  you'll find it much more difficult. 

second:  determine which master cylinder and junction block/combo-block/
prop valve you are going to use before you order the brake lines.
If you use a 63-66 style brake like for because it fits the contour of
the uperside of the car,  you will end up with a tube nut on the end
that will not fit a factory style 68->later prop valve.  

the factory style prop values used by at least 72, if not all of them
68-72,,  where designed such that you couldn't mis-plumb one.  they
have female tube nut receivers in different sizes for each of these
ports (1) rear line outlet (2) MC rear circuit res. inlet (3) MC front
circuit res.  inlet and (4) the two front disc outlets are both the
same.   but thats 4 different tube nuts.  unless you want to use
reducers and the like, you'll need to order each line with the correct
tube nuts (or) buy the $30 KD-tools flare tool.   if you buy the flare
tool kit, hit me up for some tips.  also,  flaring stainless is very
hard.

also the factory style MCs (master cylinders) use two different size
tube nuts.  on a factory set up,  you'll use a 9/16" wrench and a 1/2"
wrench on the MC tubes,  and 9/16" 1/2" 7/16" and 3/8" wrenches on the
tube nuts are the prop. valve.  

tube nuts seem to use the same thread size as the hex size,  like a
3/8"x20NF tube nut uses a 3/8" hex,  and a 3/8"x24NF tube nut uses
a 3/8" hex.

what I always do:  order standard OEM lines from 'the right stuff' or
'Fine Lines' or whomever has the best price, raid my stash of NOS
and good used tube nuts to get the correct nuts for the prop valve,
cut the new lines and reflare the ends with the correct nuts.
everything bolts together with a 100% factory look, no reducers or
adapters.  usually takes 3-4 hours to fit, cut, reflare, and install
the lines...

what I always wish I'd do:  see if I could custom order the  OEM lines
with the correct tube nut ends on the various lines to simply bolt
together.

thinking off the cuff....
*I think*    maybe....
If you don't want to use a factory prop valve, or you want to use the
wildwood/MP adjust unit,  I think this unit used 3/8" in and 3/8"
out,  I *think* you could order lines:   front brake lines 3/8" & 3/8"
both ends, rear line 3/8" & 3/8"  both ends,,  and a 3 way 3/8"
tee for the front split ,,,  and two MC lines: a 3/8" & 9/16"
and a 3/8" & 1/2" and use a 68 & later style disc MC...
*I think*    maybe....

call the vendors and talk to them , see what they think.  see what
suggestions they offer.    be aware that some vendors like to sell
GM MCs and prop valves for Mopars (that may or may not sit well with
you..--  I have a 1964 Oldsmobile along side my mopars, but parts
are kept seperate!!!  even my OEM bolt bins!!! )

Doug


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