Joe, I have not replied since you have been getting good advice. But I would like to add a couple of things that might help. Welding the connectors to the floor: Not so much a function of HP, but a function of how hard the car can hook up at launch. With the tires and suspension your running, I would not go to the trouble of welding to the floor. Welding up unibody seams. On pure race car's we have prepared in the past for both drag and road racing, we have "stitched welded" the seams. This should be done exactly the same on both sides of the car. IMO you should do the whole car, or nothing. Unibodys are amazingly strong considering the dinky spot welds they are put together with. When doing the whole car, you should have the frame striped and on a chassis plate while welding in a pre-described pattern to limit chassis warping. Make sure the car is either on a lift sitting on its tires, or if you put it on stands it is level and the jacks are in the very same spot on all four corners. When you weld the frame connectors in, it will effect the chassis alignment if you have the chassis in a bind. I have seen guys do this and have the car in such a bind, that when they are done, the doors won't open well. Have fun.... Earl I'll be pulling the carpet up in the future for some sound deadener installation so I'll do the floor welding then. I notice alot of body/frame seams with unwelded gaps underneath that I'll be filling in. Can't hurt... Can it? Joe ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.