RE: Rear tapered axles/ brakes

[Paul Lennemann <pjlenn@xxxxxxxxx>]

First of all, does your puller look similar to the one shown right near 
the top of the tech page on the 62-65 web site?  
I use a 3 lb. fist maul to tighten down the screw.  Once it's good and 
tight give the end of the screw a good whack, like hitting a punch.  
Many times this will get things moving.  Also I always remove the castle 
nut and then thread it back on backwards just far enough so that it is 
flush with the end of the axle.  This will keep the end of the axle from 
flaring out in case you over do it.  If it doesn't pop off the first 
time see if you can get another turn or so out of the screw and try it 
again.  Then get out the torch!

Paul L.
'63 Sport Fury
440/727
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html

bschleic57@xxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> 
> My 63 Fury has a leaking LR wheel cylinder.? I have them on the shelf 
> new and the lines are replaced with SS, so I pull off the wheel, attach 
> my trusty (rusty) wheel puller and whack away on the turn piece.? it 
> tightens up but drum is still firmly attached.? a little heat.? nothing. 
> plenty of PB Blaster nothing.? 
> 
> Yes i remembered to back off the self adjusters.? The nut was on plenty 
> tight, maybe someone used an air wrench and not torque wrench.
> 
> Any thoughts, wisdom or condolences?
> 
> WHS
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http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-lennemann63.html


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