RE: 64 B body rear tapered axle

["Gary H." <62to65mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

The only advice I recall reading is to put a *very* small amount of 
anti-seize on the area where the drum and axle meet. Too much 
anti-seize, it was argued, allows a false torque reading and too many  
ft/lbs on the castle nut.

If the "friction between the two parts is actually what keeps the two 
pieces acting as one" argument is correct, perhaps it may only apply to 
cars driven 100,000 plus miles a year?

Gary H.    

Willard Edison wrote:
> 
...on my 64 Plymouth Sport 
> Fury, which has the old tapered axles. I cleaned the tapers on the axle 
> and hub before reassembly and in what I thought was an enlightened 
> moment, put some anti-seize compound on the tapers so I can get the 
> assemblies apart easier in the future. Subsequently, I read some advice 
> on another website that you should NEVER put any kind of lubricant or 
> anti-seize on the tapers, as the friction between the two parts is 
> actually what keeps the two pieces acting as one, that if there is lube 
> between the two parts, eventually the steel key on the axle will wear 
> off from applied torque and the wheel assembly will spin on the axle. 
> This sounds like good logic to me, but I'm thinking that 140 lbs of 
> torque on the castle nut that binds the two parts together is enough to 
> eliminate that possibility except if I were perhaps going to be racing 
> the car, which won't happen. I'd appreciate any comments...


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