RE: wiring harnesses

[Sean B <polecat2@xxxxxxxx>]

Also, what I do to every Mopar I work on is to cut the thick red wire 
and the thick black wire on both sides of the plastic firewall 
connectors.  These two wires are the charging wires.  Then I remove the 
stubs and drill right through both plastic connectors to the size of 
these wires' insulation, then crimp and solder in new, longer sections, 
thereby eliminating the factory connectors.  It is often truly amazing 
at the difference this makes to the whole car.  Plus, no one can tell 
you did anything, as under the hood it looks unchanged.  Does wonders 
for all the lights, including out back.  For example, my friend's 1974 
Dodge pickup had blinkers and brake lights you could hardly see in the 
daytime, now they are like beacons.  Be warned, however, that if using 
an alternator above 60-70 amps, you really should bypass this system.

Sean




Don Dulmage wrote:
> 
> 
> I realize some folks just want new but I would like to tell this story.  
> When i bought my 63 that was why it was sold despite its good condition. 
> I was told it needs a complete wiring harness.  having worked in  the 
> tune up business as wellas engine building (actually at the same time 
> under my old POWER TUNE UPnamefrom the 70s) I ad often been hired by 
> insurance compaies to repair harness es on exoctic or foriegn cars where 
> it waas not avaialble or not available in reasnonable time. being also a 
> Ham radio operator electical was not anything i wroored about doing.  In 
> that time of all the cars i fixed for insurance companies the most or 
> highest number of actual burnt wires in the harnesses was three. to me 
> it made little sense to replace a wiring harness worth up to $1000 for a 
> couple of hours af work. the largest of which was finding tor getting to 
> the offending part. Wiring problems are caused usually by one of two 
> things.  Sometimes the wiring was pulled tight arond a sharpe bracket or 
> corner when it was made and eventually wore through or the number one 
> cause even still  a badly installed audio system. 
> So when i bought my 63 and was told it needed a complete new wiring 
> harness i couldnt hear that. 
> I searched the car for the offending wiring. Alli could find was the 
> alternator wiring had rubbed trough the bendable bracket on the old 
> engines valve cover. Surely that wasnt what they meant? but it was. ten 
> minutes and about 5 bucks worth of supplies and the harness was better 
> than new. I even extended it to max wedgestyle haress down the inner 
> fender since those were the woires i was fixing anyway. that was 30000 
> plus miles ago. . I tell this story just to protect folks from alarmists 
> who say IT HAS TO HAVE A COOOOMMMMMPPPPPLLLLLLLEEETE NEW WIRING HARNESS. 
> (I have a couple of nephews like this)
> Highly highly unlikely even after 50+ years. And on top of that it is 
> much easier to repair a harness completely removing any questionable 
> part  than it is to change the whole harness anyway. Now I
> know some folks want a new harnes regardless and that is you call but 
> NEED is a totally different word and if like me you dont have too much 
> gold. just stepback a minuteand tal ke a good look at your harness and 
> what is ACTUALLY wrong with it. Often it is very little. Underdash 
> wiring is usually ot bad  . some undr hood wiring on the engine 
> especially the big red wire can get brittle nder constant heat but 
> replacing that section is childs play. Just my two cents worth. 
> Don . 
> Author of
> Return to Deutschland (True Adventure)
> Old Reliable (Mopar)
> http://altonapublicschool.faithweb.com/
> 
> http://seniordragster.bravehost.com/index.html
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 


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